Adjust Bandsaw | Drift, Resaw, Blade Guides, Tension, Sharpening

for years I had issues with this little
Delta bad side never cut while I was always struggling with the cuts and I
recently got it set up so it cuts perfectly on so let me show you how I
set it up and the things I learned most were from YouTube by a guy named Alex
Snodgrass it’s probably one of the suggested videos over here it’s 35
minutes long I suggest you watch it but here are the quick things that I learned
and how I got this set up so before you do anything make sure it’s unplugged so
you can work on it without fear of hitting the switch there’s just a few
things you have to setup but the biggest thing the number one thing I learned was
the blade on the wheel I was getting lots of drift it was always drifting off
line when I was trying to resaw cuts and the biggest thing I learned from that
video was you you Ness not necessarily want the blade in the center of the
wheel you want the gullet of the teeth in the center of the wheel and his point
was just because the blades in the center of the wheel the teeth might be
unsupported and that’s why you’re getting drift on the blade so the setup
I have now is the gullet of the teeth so where the teeth come to the point and
then curl around that deep the deepest part of that curl should be in the
center of the wheel I think that made the biggest difference so right here
this is the top wheel and you can see that that blade is not centered but the
gullet of the center the teeth are centered on the blade I used to have
this blade shift that over way over to the left and now it’s supported the
teeth are supported and it cuts much better and you can see on the bottom
that’s totally different the teeth are off the front so I was always concerned
about getting these two coplanar and getting them aligned he said as long as
the on the top wheel the teeth the gullet of the teeth are centered on that
wheel that’s all you need and that has made the biggest difference the next
thing I did was sharpen the blade I’ve been using an old dull blade so I went
through I got a little the nine dollar sharpener from Harbor Freight and I just
went through and touched the blade sharpen it up I think that made a big
difference next the adjustments
and this saw has the little allen wrench right there on the side you can remove
this blade yard now the adjustments on the set the two side adjustments
typically there’s a type of friction material or a little two bearings this
has the little friction blocks on the side they want to be just not touching
maybe a sixteenth of an inch they’re just there in case the blade gets off
track so not a huge amount of adjustment on the top or bottom of the side
adjustment adjusters that’s not very critical on the back there’s a wheel
bearing on the back of the blade that he said take take a lot of time adjusting
that it shouldn’t be touching it should be as close as you can get it without
touching so you don’t need an eighth of an inch sixteenth of an inch as close as
you can get that back wheel without touching that’s where you set it on the
top and the bottom so here are the guides and I’ve tried to get this as
close as I can without touching the blade this back guide and on the front
these don’t have to be exact just as close to supporting the blade as you can
and the last thing he said was tensioning of the blade no some people
say oh you should pluck it and hear a note should be this note it should be
that note his suggestion was just tap it with your finger on the side and it
should deflect an eighth of an inch so it doesn’t matter how big your saw blade
is what type of blade it is then we’ll just tap it on the side thanks about
here you just tap it real lightly and it should deflect an eighth of an inch and
that’s how you get the tension and here’s what he meant when he said
adjusting you’re just tapping the side of the blade and it should deflect an
eighth of an inch it doesn’t matter what size blade you have what’s I saw you
have just tap it on the side and it should deflect an eighth of an inch
so those things sharpening the blade centering the the gullet on the wheel
the adjusters on the blade guides and the tension this is I was cutting it
better than it ever has and I think the main thing though that I learned was
getting that the blade centered getting the gullet centered and critically on
the top you’re not concerned about the bottom really you don’t care about the
bottom it doesn’t have they don’t have to be coplanar they don’t have to be
aligned as long as you are centered on the gullet on the top so it’s actually
off the the teeth are a little bit off the wheel on the bottom so it’s cutting
great because I’m a top here it’s in the center the teeth are supported and
they’re not flexing offline so those are the things I learned after you watch
this video I suggest watching his video over here on the left it’s 35 minutes
but it’s super good and he tells you tons of ton of stuff about bandsaw and
cutting but I hope this helped I hope this was a quick lesson on getting rid
of drift and getting it cuts on a bandsaw even a cheap bone like this
thanks well I hope you liked the video you just
watched if you did feel free to subscribe by clicking the button on this
side you can also check out all the videos I’ve done the playlist from
things I’ve built things I’ve fixed home repair 3d printing and on this side you
can check out a recommended video similar to the one you just watched
and as always down in the description I’ll put a link to my blog which has
more pictures and more information about the video you just watched thanks

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Reader Comments

  1. Dave Wirth

    Blade Guides ……………..

    Rotary Tool Kit …………..

    Bandsaw Blade …………. (says meat blade but great for wood and super cheap)

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