Clinton Anderson: Training a Rescue Horse, Part 1 – Downunder Horsemanship

(determined rock music) – I’m Clinton Anderson and I have a method for training horses. Getting horse to behave is simple, it’s training people
that’s the real trick. Join me as I tackle some of
the most challenging situations with problem horses and
with problem owners. (glass shattering) (shimmering) Today is a new start for Cider, a six year old rescue mare
from Habitat for Horses. All Cider has ever known is
abuse, starvation, and neglect. My goal, mate, is to gain her respect and build her confidence with humans. How you doin’ mate? Jolene, it’s great to
have you here, Jolene. – Thanks. – Let’s get your horse off, mate. (thoughtful country music) This mare was loose in the stock trailer, which, to be honest, is
I don’t typically like to do a lot of those
unless they’re really wild, of course, you may have to. But the trouble when you’ve got them loose is when you open up that back door, they’re usually in a
hurry and they want to go and bust out of that back door. So, I was going to open
the back door a little bit, sneak in there, see if I
could get the lead rope clipped up on her and then open the door and see if could get her out. But, you know, as antsy as
she was and upset as she was and reactive, I could just
see a big wreck happening. I open up that door and another
thing that tipped me off is I opened up that door about two inches and she got a nose and immediately started
pushing on that door like she kinda knew what was going on. So, to me, my gut told me, you know what, let’s just back the trailer up to the pen, open up the gate, she
can come out by herself. If she comes out fast, she’s
not gonna hurt herself, not gonna hurt me or
anybody else around her. And then once we’ve got
her in this enclosure, then we can go ahead and
do something with her at this particular point. So that’s why we ended up
backing the trailer in. Don’t ever let a horse out of a trailer, especially if he’s coming out front first, and you be standing there in
the middle of the open doorway because horse are reactive and
then when they feel trapped and claustrophobic, they’re
gonna bolt out of those trailers and they’re gonna run you over. So, what we’re gonna do with this mare is we’re just gonna let her settle in here for the next hour or so. Then I’ll come back in, I’ll try and get that halter off her, I’m not a big fan of leaving
halters on horses unattended. We’ll take that halter off her if we can get up to her
enough and get her caught. And then, you know, when we
start working with her tomorrow, we can go ahead and take
her to the round pen and start the program with this filly. We’re gonna find out what her name is and the history on her and all
that kind of stuff about her. But I just like her to kinda
get settled in for right now and then we’ll start
to work with her, okay. Let’s found out some history on this mare and find out why she needs a home and what we can do to help her. Jolene, great to have
you on the show, mate. – Thank you. – Jolene, you’ve come here today and you’ve been gracious enough
to give us one your horses out of your adoption program that we’re gonna work with
over the next 13 weeks and retrain and get her to
be broke and quiet and safe. And eventually, we’re gonna give her away to one lucky viewer around the country that’s gonna have a great horse that they’re gonna have
for the rest of their life and really enjoy its company. But before we can get into that, I really want to know some history about how this mare got here. – [Jolene] She was seized at one year and then she was adopted a year later. – [Clinton] Right, and then
did somebody report the owner? How do you guys become aware
of these type of horses? – Generally, you can either
report it to law enforcement. – Right. – Or people come to our website and actually report it through us– – Okay. – And then we investigate it. – So then you investigated it, obviously the horse was being mistreated, it was real skinny and poor. You take it over at that point, correct. – [Jolene] Correct. – [Clinton] And that
was when she was a year. – [Jolene] Yes. – So you kept her for how long then before she was adopted out? – A year. – Another year. – Uh-huh. – So you kept her a
year, took care of her, and then you adopted her out, what happened with the next
person that adopted her? – The family that had
her fell upon hard times. – Okay. – And she was starved again. – Okay, so she didn’t get any better luck the second trip round. – Right, right. – So she was real skinny and poor again and then you had to go
take her back again, is that correct? – [Jolene] Right. – So I see, you know, you’ve obviously got great weight on her, she looks real good, she’s
nice and fat and healthy. Which is good because she’s gonna lose a little bit of that weight
over the next 13 weeks and she’ll gain some
muscle and she’ll tone up and so forth. So, her name’s Cider, what she know, mate? What do we know about her history? Is she broken in? – [Jolene] She is not very broke. – [Clinton] Okay. – She can be led, I don’t
believe she can be tied. – Right, she can’t be tied up, right. – She does not like trailers. She has been wormed and
her feet do get trimmed. – [Clinton] Okay. – But she was very close with the foster, Jackie, that had her. – Okay, right. – And so, he was able
to do a lot with her. – Cool. – He actually even has
put a saddle on her. – [Clinton] Okay, but she’s
never been ridden, correct? – Oh no, huh-uh. – No, never been ridden. Okay then, well listen,
what the goal is here for this next 13 weeks series is we’re gonna work with her and I’m gonna start her in the Downunder Horsemanship Methods. And the purpose of this television series was to do two things, number one, make people more aware that there is a lot of horse
that can get adopted out, that can be retrained, and
can be productive citizens if you use the right techniques, okay. So, at the very end of it, of course, one lucky owner gets
the horse, the saddle, the equipment, I mean, we
send them down the road with the whole package. – Wow. – The horse, a brand new
saddle, saddle pad, boots, bridle, bits, everything you can name, goes out with this horse. All the Cashel Products, the fly spray, the fly masks and fly sheets. This is kind of like,
you know, home makeover but this is horse makeover. – Right. (laughing) – This is horse makeover the horse and horse makeover for
the new owner as well. So, we anticipate this
gonna be a great series, we can’t guarantee it of course, we don’t know exactly how
trainable she’s going to be, okay. She might be great, she
might be not so good. But we’re gonna get into
that as we get along. But the bottom line is is
there is a real need for people to take horses that are
unwanted, train them, work with them, and try
and find them a place that they can go. (shimmering) (upbeat country music) (determined rock music) – [Announcer] Fundamentals
has shown you the basics, now, it’s time to put those
principals into practice. Get out of the arena and get on the trail. This all new supplement will show you how to apply the method on the trail. You get 10 instruction packed DVDs and two hardcover books. That’s over $800 worth of training for only $399. Get up, get out and get on the trail. (upbeat rock music) (shimmering) – The mare behind me, her name is Cider. Cider is a six year old
Palomino quarter horse mare. Cider’s had a very tough upbringing, when she was a year old,
she was seized by the police because her owners starved
her and mistreated her. She was absolutely in terrible condition, her ribs were showing, her hip bones, she almost died. She was taken in by a rescue organization called Habitat for Horses. It’s a national organization,
they do a wonderful job, the take in horses that have been beaten, abused, and starved and
they find them foster homes and eventually, their goal is
to get these horse adopted out to people that will take
care of these horses for the rest of their lives. So, to begin with, our first goal is, we brought Cider in here,
we’ve let her rest in here and so forth, now we’ve
actually gotta start getting the training done. She’s had a chance to kind of settle in, she’s very frightened, this mare, she’s very scared of human beings. She has a halter on her but she doesn’t want to
be caught whatsoever. So what I’m gonna try
and do is get her caught and I’ll kind of have
to play around with her and see exactly how we’re
gonna get that done. And then my goals is to get
her over to my round pen. And we’re gonna start my
program in the round pen and we’re gonna show you first hand how to train a horse, whether it’s wild and never been touched or it’s been abused and show you how to get
the right foundation on these horses. Remember, Downunder Horsemanship is the very best horsemanship
program in the world. It’s the easiest to follow
and I’m gonna prove it to you over the next 13 weeks and we’re gonna see a horse be transformed into
a frightened, scared animal into a willing, respectful partner and the horse you’ve always wanted. So listen mate, let’s get started. So now we’ve got a halter
and lead rope here, she’s gonna notice that
I’m carrying something a little bit different,
it’s a different color. You can tell she can see, see,
how her ears are pricked up? She’s no dummy. Okay, so see how anything new,
she gets frightened of again. Do you see that coming out in her? So, just because I’ve got a
different tool in my hand, doesn’t mean I act differently. I’m not gonna just walk straight up to her and try and trap her. Now you notice a lot of
the time when I rub her, you notice that I kind of look away, like I’m looking at some
cattle over there in the field and some other brood mares. It’s kind of hard to describe, but it’s almost like the more you act like you couldn’t care less about them, the quieter they get. But when you look at them
and really face them, you’re a lot more confrontational. So when I rub her a lot, I’m look at her out the corner of my eye but in reality, my body
language is like, yeah, I like every other horse more than you, you know, I’m with ya, but you know, I don’t really care if I catch you or not. And you’d be amazed when a horse thinks that you don’t want to catch them, you’d be amazed how they
want you to catch them. You try to catch them, they
don’t want to be caught anymore. They were go, good girl. So now I’m just gonna grab
the cheek piece of the halter and just move it a little bit just to see how she’s gonna react to it. That was pretty good. So now I’m just gonna go
head and clip up my clip to the halter. So we’ll kind of figure out
how halter broke she is here. That’s a girl. So now I can move a
little bit quicker here. So I’m gonna go around
to her hind quarters to see how much she can follow a feel, it’s not too bad there. Well, she’s good, she’s
got some weight on her now which is good, I’d rather
have her a little fatter going into this, ’cause she
is gonna lose some weight when she gets worked. Good girl. So now I’m just gonna be
a little bit more forward now when I rub her, I’m not gonna be quite so relaxed as far as, you
know, going slow with her. There we go. Okay, I really want to get my rope halter on this particular horse. I do not like traditional
webbing halters like this, in fact I hate them. These ones and leather ones. The reason I hate traditional
webbing type halters is this, the thicker and wider
something is on a horse’s head, the easier it is for them to lean on it and pull on it, it’s just that simple. So these type of halters, in my mind, encourage horse to lean against pressure. I like these rope halters for two reasons, the rope halters are made
out of a stiffer rope, you’ll notice that the difference
between my rope halters and other people’s is that,
my rope is a lot stiffer. The stiffer the rope is, the
more it discourages the horse from wanting to lean on
it and pull against you. I’m not saying it stops them completely but it certainly decreases
the urge of it a lot. I do not like rope halters
that have real big, thick, soft rope, the
thicker and softer the rope, the easier and more it
encourages your horse to lean all over them. Now, I certainly didn’t
invent rope halters, they’ve been around for hundreds of years. But one thing like about mine
is the stiffness of the rope, the shape and the design of the knots, and it also has two additional
knots on the nose band here. These two additional knots
work off the pressure points of the horses nose, okay. So I press her here, you’ll notice that see how that causes her to back away from that pressure? That’s what these knots do, is that when I pull on the halter it encourages the horse to back away and give vertically to that. So they work off the pressure
points off the horse nose. Horse have pressure points
all over their body, what do I call a pressure point? A pressure point, to me, is
an area of the horse body that is more sensitive than others that the horse will have a bigger tendency to naturally want to yield
and give to that pressure. Well, they for sure have them on the front of their nose here so when you squeeze them, see how that causes them to back way from that particular pressure. Now, I’m not gonna tell you that you can not train
a horse using my methods with this type of halter, you could. Will it take you a lot longer? The answer is yes. Will it be as productive? The answer is no. Okay, but you could get it done. I kind of put it in these terms. You can build a house
with a farrier’s hammer, with a little, bitty head on it, okay, and a small handle or
you can build a house with a carpenter’s hammer
that has a big head on it, big long handle. Well, for every nail
you knock in the frame, it might take you three wacks
with a big carpenter’s hammer. If you use a little,
bitty farrier’s hammer, it might take you 10 wacks
to get the nail to go in. You can still build the house
with a farrier’s hammer, it just takes you a lot, lot longer. There is no magic piece of equipment that’s going to make
everything right, okay. The magic is what you’re
gonna do with the equipment. But there is certainly
equipment that’ll make your job go a lot quicker, be a lot more productive and will last a lot longer. So I’m gonna go ahead and
put this halter on her now. Now, to begin with, what I want to do here, just to make sure that she doesn’t get away from me here, okay, ’cause I don’t want to
have to go re-catch her again, Is I’m just gonna rub
her a little bit here and I’m just gonna get
this over her neck here, to begin with, okay. I’m just gonna tie little
bowline on this right now, just so it’s around her neck. It can’t tighten up around her neck, see how it won’t, it’s
not like a slip knot, but I do somewhat have
a hold of her, okay. Now, I’m just gonna pull
on that a little bit, just so she knows it, too. ‘Cause a lot of horse develop that habit, I don’t know anything about this horse, so I’m not gonna take any chances. You ever seen those
horses develop that habit that as soon as you go
to take off the halter, the turn, spin, and bolt? Well, I want her to know,
that this rope is on her neck and I need her to give to
it and give me two eyes. So in case you went to leave town, I want to be able to
get her to look at me. Next thing I’m gonna do is I’m
gonna take this halter off. There we go. Now, as I slide it off, Okay, I’m just gonna do it slow. That’s it, I’m gonna keep
her head tipped towards me with my rope here. Righty-oh, let me just rub
this round her neck here a little bit, okay,
she’s pretty good here. Get her head tipped
towards me a little bit, I’m gonna scoop her nose, like that. What you don’t want to do
is try to catch the horse, anywhere, this one or any one, like this, where you’re trying to scoop their nose and the horse gets
their nose away from you up in the air. Always try to get in the habit of getting your horse’s head
tipped towards you like this. That’s a girl. And that way, I can put the
crow piece around her neck, so now, if she went to leave, I can pull her back with this, okay. I always want the horse
offering me that nose. Now I can go ahead and scoop her nose with the halter, just
like that there, okay. There’s correct ways to do everything and ways that will instill
good habits in your horses. Righty-oh, keep ahold of
this a little bit here, now we’ll just go ahead
and clip up our lead rope. I can take this off her neck. So now we’ve got the
right equipment on her to begin with here, okay. So, this halter here, this is
what I call a creek halter. You know why I call it a creek halter? ‘Cause it should be thrown in the creek. I absolutely hate these things, their cheap, they break easily, and they don’t do a very
good job training a horse. So, now we’ve got a halter
and lead rope on Cider. Let’s go ahead and see if we
can get her out of this pen, lead her into my round
pen, and let’s start the Downunder Horsemanship
Methods with her. (horse neighing) Hmm, you leavin’ your buddies? Come on. (shimmering) (upbeat country rock music) – [Announcer] Clinton Anderson,
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Anderson tour event near you. (determined music) (determined rock music) (upbeat country rock music) (mouth clicking) – Okay, Cider. Righty-oh. We’ve got the mare to the round pen, she led not too bad. Couple times on the way over
here she kind of got spooked and then one time she
reared right up in the air and got real worried about the whole deal. But this is where I like
to start training a horse is in the round pen, right here, okay. The reason why I like to
start training a horse using the Downunder Horsemanship Methods in the round pen is that you first of all gotta be able to catch your horse. If you can’t catch your horse without having to pin in
the corner of the stall or throw a rope on him, you’re not starting the
lesson out in the right foot. So basically, I would
rather my horse catch me, rather than me trying to catch him. It also gives me a chance
to get the horse respectful, get him moving his feet,
forwards, backwards, left and right, getting
him moving out of my space without being connect to him
with the halter and lead rope. But use these rope halters
and a 14 foot lead rope, just like right there. I can wiggle that rope, see how that clip can bump her under the chin there, and I can get her to move
out of my personal space. They also have a weighted end, lead ropes have a weighted end, that way if I go to twirl end of it, it’s very easy for me to
yield her hind quarters, or get her to give me two eyes. The rope has a very unique feel to it is that it’s kind of
what I call got energy or life of its own. When I wiggle it here,
whatever I do at my hand, you see how it ends up at the clip? If I wiggle it more, it
increases the pressure. There we go until she moves her foot. Now even though she reared up in the air, I’m not too worried about that, what I’m worried about is
that she respects it, there, and she moves out of my space. Notice that time she didn’t rear up and she’s already starting to, what, look cock her leg and she
licked her lips just then. So just by getting two
eyes established on me, okay and getting her to
move out of my space, we’ve already started
to get her to submit. Okay, let’s get started here. So we’ve got her in the round pen, let me see if I can get her to
come off this pressure here. And I’m gonna turn her loose, okay. That’s a girl, rub her here a little bit. And when I go to take this halter off, I want to start instilling
some good habits in her from right now, where
I take that halter off, I’m not gonna let her just turn and run, get her head tipped
towards me, there we go, and then I’ll her off. Okie-dokie, let’s get started, mate. Another tool that I’m gonna
use is our handy stick. A handy stick and string is basically just an extension of our arm, okay. It’s four foot, fiberglass poll, with a golf grip on the end of it. It’s got a rubber tip on the other end, it’s got a six foot long
rope string on it, okay. The stick if four feet long,
the string is six feet long, my arms three feet long, so all together, I can reach it out and
I can spank or influence 13 feet away from me. By using the stick and string, I use this a sensitizing tool, to encourage my horse to move their feet and I also use it as a desensitizing tool to get my horse to stand still, relax, and not be worried about
things moving around them. See, horses hate objects,
especially objects that do what, move and,
what, make a noise. Anything that doesn’t live
in your horse’s pasture or stall, your horse
classes as an object, okay. So I want to desensitize Cider
to as many objects that move and make a noise as I possibly can. So, by using the halter and lead rope and the stick and string,
I’ve got the right tools to get started from the beginning. Now, as far as round pen size goes, I like a 50 foot in diameter round pen. 50 feet in diameter, any bigger
than 50 feet in diameter, you end up doing too much running around, you end up getting twice as tired as what the horse does, okay. Any smaller than 50 feet in diameter, it’s too hard for the
horse to lope around, like if you’re working
in a 40 foot round pen or 35 foot round pen, it’s
easier to do the ground work but it’s much harder to get the horse to be able to lope around
the round pen comfortably. So 50 feet is a good size
to do your ground work in and actually ride the horse in. So, Cider has never been broken in, okay. Well, actually, I think
the owner, Joanne said, that she had a saddle on her one time and that was it, (horse neighing) But she’s never necessarily been riden, doesn’t know anything else. So, in my mind, I’m just gonna take her right back to the beginning. So if you get a chance, this
is where I’d like you start in my program in a round pen. If you don’t have a
round pen like this one, this is a portable panel round pen, I like a fence that’s six feet high. My theory is, anything that
jumps over a six foot high fence I just let the neighbors keep it, I don’t worry about it, okay. So as a general, 50 feet in diameter, six foot high fence. There’s lots of great
round pens out there, so 50 feet in diameter, six feet high. If you’ve got more of
a quiet, broke horse, like a backyard pet, you
can put them in a little electric fence round pen, you can go to Tractor Supply
and get little fiberglass poles and put them in the ground,
little electric fence tape. Okay, you can use the Electrobraid rope, there are cheap ways
of building a round pen that don’t have to cost a lot of money. So, what I’m gonna try to do is, I’m gonna gain her respect. How am I gonna get her to respect, by getting her feet to move, forwards, backwards, left, and right and always rewarding the slightest try. So by getting her feet
to move in the round pen, where I’m not connected to her, it makes it safer for me,
’cause I’m not close to her. I don’t know anything about this horse, so I’m gonna assume that
she’s the most dangerous, pushy, disrespectful horse,
frightened horse in the world and I’m gonna make no assumptions. ‘Cause as soon as you make an assumption that the horse is quite
or you make an assumption that they won’t kick, oh no,
he won’t buck with a saddle, or he won’t bite, that’s
when they’re gonna get you every single time. I’m not frightened of her but
I do have a healthy respect for what horse can do to you. So, as soon as you stop respecting how big and powerful they are, you’re going to get hurt. It’s not if you’re gonna
get hurt, it’s just when. So, let’s start the program, mate. Step number one in the round pen is I need to get control of her feet. There’s three ways you
can control horse’s mind. The first way is by creating movement, getting the horse’s feet to move. The second way you can
control a horse’s mind is by re-directing that movement, forwards, backwards, left, and right. And the third way you can
control a horse’s mind is by inhibiting that movement, okay. That would be like laying the
horse down, hobbling them, teaching them to lead by their feet. And we’ll do a bunch of that but it won’t be until step
number one and two are done. It’s when I create movement by getting the feet to move and then when I re-direct that movement. So you gain a horses respect by moving their feet forwards,
backwards, left, and right. We’ve got to get her to respect us and we’ve gotta get her to use the thinking side of her brain. (shimmering) (upbeat country music) – [Announcer] Ever wish Clinton
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bring the method to you. Visit for more. (upbeat rock music) (shimmering) – In chasing her around
the round pen, okay, I want to imagine there’s a
saddle on Cider right now, okay. And right where that girth would be if she had a saddle on is
what we call the drive line. If I’m behind this drive
line, I’m pushing her forward. If I get in front of that drive line, like over here, I’m gonna step in front, you see how that causes her to stop, slow down, or change directions. So it’s very, very
important that I’m conscious about where that drive line is. Now, do you notice that I’ve moved her off a little faster a couple times, just right then, she
kind of shook her head, and then, you know, jumped
in the air a little bit and that’s kind of a little
bit of a lack of respect there. So, automatically, I’m
starting to read her and I’m starting to ask
myself, how respectful is she? Like right there, when
she kind of does that, that’s her telling me, hey listen, I don’t want to have to move my feet, you need to back off. I want to teach her no, you don’t need to be frightened of me but you sure darn well need to respect me. Now, that was better, she sped her feet up without some sort of an attitude. So I normally just let them
trot around the round pen to figure out where the fences are. If you put them in a
round pen straight away and you start chasing them, okay, and putting a bunch of pressure on them, they might want to jump
up over the fence, okay. So just let them trot around
the outside a few laps and get the feel of it. Once I know the horse
is not gonna jump out, then I’d really like to
get the horses to canter. By getting them to canter
around the round pen, the faster you move a horse’s feet, okay, the more respect you get. Most fat, lazy horses, anybody
can get them to walk and trot but if you ask them to canter, oh no, now the whole world comes to an end because they’re panicked because they start loosing weight, okay. It’s very important to get them cantering. So I have three ques to
make the horse speed up. I’m gonna point up high,
if that doesn’t work, I’m gonna cluck, (mouth clicking) if that just still don’t
work, I’m gonna spank. And I’ll spank the ground
with the stick and string. I’ll initially spank the
ground, if that doesn’t work, I’m gonna spank her in
the butt with it, okay. Now, because she’s been
abused, and starved, and mistreated, in all honesty, I’m not gonna treat her any differently to any other horse that
I would ever train. If we turned her out in the pasture, let’s just say, she was a bag of bones like she was when she was seized, okay. If you turned her out in a
pasture with 10 other horses, they wouldn’t treat her any differently, they wouldn’t say oh, no, no, no, you know, we gotta let her
eat first, she’s skinny, we can’t pick on her, we
can’t bite or kick her because she’s underweight
and she’s been mistreated. She would go straight
into the pecking order just like any other member of the herd. So in all honesty, when I find
people that have had horses that have been abused,
the more they act like they’ve been abused, the harder it is to get the horse over their issues. But if you just start acting
like it’s no different horse to anyone else, okay, you’d be amazed how quickly they start making progress. I don’t if it’s a Arab or
Thoroughbred, a draft horse, gated horse, okay, miniature,
I treat them all the same. The first 90 days in my program
is the foundation series, okay, getting the basic
fundamentals on our horses is very important. So, point is, asking the horse to go, cluck is (mouth clicking) I’m warning you, and spank is spank. So every time she trots, I’m gonna give her those cues, point, cluck (mouth clicking), spank. There we go. So step one in a round pen
is establish direction, (mouth clicking) just
get her feet to move. Step two in the round pen is
what I’m gonna work on next, which is getting her to
redirect in the round pen and get her to change directions but I want her to turn into me and give me two eyes. Remember, two eyes is always
better than two heals. A respectful horse turns and
shows you his eyes and head, a disrespectful horse shows
you his butt and tail. So, I want to get a change
of direction (mouth clicking) to the inside. So what I’m gonna do,
when I change directions, I’m gonna step out in
front of the drive line, And then I’m gonna walk backwards, and as I walk backwards,
I’m gonna hold my finger up and imagine that I’m pull in
this imaginary lead rope, okay. And I’m gonna draw her to me, her head, when she gives me two eyes, I’m gonna step to the side, and ask her to change directions. Now, if she doesn’t turn into me, let’s just say she turns
her butt towards me and turns into the fence, I’m gonna immediately cut her off and send her back the new direction, okay. So let’s see what happens. (mouth clicking) I’m
gonna speed her up here. Step in front, now back, there. Step to the side and
we ask her to move on. The reason why I sped her up a little bit before I changed directions, that helps get them to give you two eyes. Remember this, the more
you chase their butt, the more you get the eyes. However, the more you chase the eyes, the more you’ll get the butt. So, what a lot of people try and do is they try to cut the horse
off to get them to turn. Drive the hind quarters and the more you drive their butt, the more you’ll drive them to look at you. So we change sides now,
which really means what? We changed brains. Remember, horses have
two sides to every horse, okay, we got a lefty and righty, they got two sides to their brain, left side and a right side. Each side of your horse is
a completely separate horse, so you’ve gotta train them independently. Whatever we do on the left side, we must reteach it on the right side. So, first thing I’m gonna let her do, is trot around, let her get a feel for it. Now, I’m gonna ask her to canter, point, (mouth clicking) cluck,
there we go, and spank. You know, eventually,
I don’t want to have to (mouth clicking) spank the ground. As soon as I point,
she’ll immediately lope. Now, you notice that I
let her break to a trot, and then I correct her. I want her to be responsible
for her own gait. So by working with the horse
loose in the round pen, I can really get those feet moving forward so that way when I go to put the halter and lead rope on her, it’s much easier. (mouth clicking) Here we go. (shimmering) (upbeat rock music) – [Clinician] Anything worth
having is worth working for, that’s for sure. – [Second Clinician]
Not gonna make it here if you got any quit in ya. – This is where I needed to
be the best that I could be and that’s just what we do here. – [Announcer] Dedication, ambition, passion, to some these are more than ideals, they are a lifestyle, a code, a path to something greater. If you think you’re one of the select few who can rise to the challenge, who can dedicate themselves
to mastering the method, through 70 weeks of in
depth, hands on training. Let the Clinton Anderson
Academy catapult your skills and provide you with
the ultimate experience. If you have what it takes, become a Clinton Anderson
Certified Clinician and change your life. – [Ground Control] Verify
ready to resume count and go for launch. – [Controller] Minus 10, nine, – [Ground Control] 52. – [Controller] Eight, seven,
six, five, four, three. – [Ground Control] Houston flight is go. – [Controller] Two, one, zero. (determined rock music) – [Ground Control] Go for launch. Mission complete. (shimmering) – Let’s change direction,
step in front, now back, keep going back, keep going
back, keep going back. Now, when I get to the fence, I’m gonna walk down the fence, if she turns into the
fence, I’ll cut her off. Now that was good, she turned into me. So I’m having to widen the angle for her, to make it easy for her to understand the turn to the inside. See, any horse can stop and turn to outside of the round pen, I want them to step to
the inside, turn in. Any horse can stop and
show you their butt, I’ve never had a horse
that’s hard to catch that looked at me. I’ve had a lot of time,
hard time catching horses that didn’t want to look at me. (mouth clicking) Move those feet. So we’ll try again, okay. Now step number three is get a consistent change of direction to the inside. And that’s what I’m working on now is trying to consistently get
her to where she’ll turn in. Step in front, now back, back, back. And then step to the
side. (mouth clicking) There we go. Now this gives me a chance to
see how athletic the horse is, are they lazy, are they hot
blooded, are they cold blooded, wow do they handle pressure, okay. So far, she doesn’t seem
real hot or real cold, kind of in the middle, which ain’t bad. Step in front, now back,
back, keep going back (mouth clicking) until
you get to the fence, then I’ll step to the fence here, she may turn into the fence, she may turn into the center, that’s a good girl. So right now, I’m working
on step number three, which is getting a consistent
change of direction to the inside. She’s not very good at
it but she’ll get better, this is just day one. Okay, she’s been turning away from people and running from people her whole life so she’s not gonna catch
on to giving two eyes instantly, really good, okay. So I point, (mouth clicking) there we go. Step in front, now back, now
I’m gonna step to the side. I’m gonna see if I can
get this a little better. What I’m gonna do now is I’m not gonna babysit her
so much and walk back so far, I’m gonna step out to the side and back and then step around the other side and see if I can get her a
better change of direction. (mouth clicking) I’m putting a little, get
a little closer to her and now, come out, now I’m
gonna step to the side. She turned into the fence, cut her off. We’ll try it again. Back, step to the side, cut her off again. See how I whipped her butt just then, if I can touch that tail, it’s fair game. You better not stick it in my face. Back, back, now that’s
what I’m looking for there. You notice how she didn’t stop that time, she kind of changed directions
and kept her feet moving. That’s ultimately what I’m looking for is that the horse comes round and changes direction real smooth. So I’m gonna start doing a
lot more change of direction. Now, I’m gonna let her
break down to a trot ’cause she can’t canter forever,
of course, it’s kind of hot and she’s not in real good shape. So, I can’t physically exhaust her but I’ve certainly gotta make
sure I’ve got my point across to say, I need you to
allow me to move your feet. (mouth clicking) Step in front, (mouth clicking) here we go. So I’m looking for that
consistent change of direction. She stops and immediately turns in. She wants to kind of stop and dwell. Step in front, like right here. (mouth clicking) Even though
she turned into the fence, I didn’t let her stop. Let’s try it again. Step in front, (mouth clicking). Okay, cut her off again. Step in front, that’s what
I’m looking for right there. Notice that when she turns in, I kind of leave her alone, don’t I, I don’t do much to her. Try it again. Step in front. Because she’s off the fence a little bit, she’s using that as an option to right. Send her on again. Step in front, now back, that’s a little better. I have a little theory, if they’ve got enough energy
to do the wrong thing, more than likely,
they’ve got enough energy to do the right thing. Step in front, back. See, the more a horse does something, it becomes a habit or
pattern in their mind. Okay, it’s like a blueprint, so every time she changes
direction to the inside, I’m reinforcing don’t turn away from me. Turn into me. Step in front, (mouth
clicking) there we go. Excellent. So I’m gonna let her
stop here in a second, that’s good, she’s licking
her lips a little bit. Step in front, (mouth clicking) there we go. Now she’s starting to get it. So as she gets better, notice that I let her relax here, okay, don’t put a lot of pressure on her. (shimmering) (determined country music) (determined soulful music) (excited country music) (shimmering) I though that was a
great place to quit her because that was where she
wanted to turn into the fence, right at that angle,
wasn’t it, over there. That time, she turned into me pretty good and I thought, you know
what, that’d be a great place to reward her. I want her to think that the only place she gets her air back is
if she gives me two eyes. Right now, her most vulnerable asset, her most, the asset that she
really wants the most is air. Okay, I’m gonna show her the only place she’s gonna have to get air
is if she give me two eyes. So step number four in the round pen is get the horse to stop, turn in, and then eventually walk
all the way up to you, or you’ll walk away
and they’ll follow you. So step one, establish direction, step two, establish a change
of direction to the inside, get the horse to stop
and turn to the inside. Step three is get a
consistent change of direction to the inside where stop turn, stop turn. When I say stop turn, ultimately
you don’t them to stop and then turn, you want it to just flow. In the beginning she wanted to stop, hang up on the fence, and then turn in. Towards the end, she got it to where she could keep the trot. I’d like them to do this,
trot those figure eights where they just keep their momentum going. And step number four is
get the horse to stop, turn and come in. And how do you do that,
you catch their eye, and as soon as they look at
you, you walk away, okay. So, even though I want to catch her, that’s my end goal, before I do catch her, I want to make sure I’ve
got control of her feet, I can make her walk, trot, and canter. I wanna make sure I can get
her to change directions, and I also wanna makes
sure that I can get her to give me two eyes and yield
her hind quarters as well. She thinks that when I
drive towards her butt, that means she should go forward. When I lean forward and
look at her hind quarters, it means turn and face me. This is the, catch her eyes, there, she turned and faced me there. That’s why you do the
change of direction first, when you’re doing the round pen because every time I step back
in front of that drive line, that’s her cue to stop and face me. See what happens here. (mouth clicking) There, that was pretty good. Now, I lost her and she went
to walk off, didn’t she. And then right when she
got back to the center, she turned and faced me again. That’s a good sign that
she went to leave town and then she said, maybe
I should check back in. Okay, put a little pressure
on the hind quarters, catch her eye, (mouth clicking), catch her eye. Now that was really good right there. I’m not trying to get up to her right now, I’m trying to get control of her feet. Now that was really good now. Now now that I’m getting
closer to the fence, this’ll put her in more
of a vulnerable position. As I come down this fence now,
it’s gonna be more attractive for her just to turn off that direction, then turn and face me. Let’s see what she does. She’s thinking about it, oh, that’s good. That’s excellent. See, I actually like this, I love it when I’m on the outside of the round pen and their on the inside. That’s really good. So as they star disengaging their hip, they’ll let you get
closer to them as well. Oh, no she’s getting it,
isn’t she, look at this. (mouth clicking) Good girl. And remember, you work
on one side at a time. It’s not about catching the horse, even though we’d like to catch her, it’s not about that. The lesson is about getting
control of her feet, getting her to respect me, getting her to use the
thinking side of her brain rather than the reactive
side of her brain. It’s getting this communication,
this pecking order, between me and her established. I’m number one in the pecking
order, she’s number two. So let’s work on the other side, mate. Now remember, new side, new brain. So I’m going to see I can
just get one step of that, now she’s thinking about
turning away here, isn’t she. I need that right hind leg, get ready, (mouth clicking) catch
her eye, catch her eye. That’s what I was after right
there, did you see that there. She kind of stepped away with that butt. Just because I can do it on one side, doesn’t mean they can do it on the other. So again, I’m gonna lean
forward, pull on her nose with this imaginary lead rope, now that was really good then. So I’m trying to do the exact same thing on the opposite side before I walk up and start touching her. That’s it, excellent. But it’s so important to
establish this from the beginning. Get this imaginary lead rope on them, get them connected to you mentally. When you get a horse mentally
wanting to be with you, when you do have the
halter and lead rope on, it’s really easy. But if just because you have
the halter and lead rope on doesn’t mean they mental
want to be with you, they’re mentally trying
to get away from you. Good place to quit her for a second, just let her have a little air. That’s a girl. Good girl, ain’t she clever. This is exactly the place
you want to reward her when she’s giving you two eyes. Horse love to be rubbed over their eyes, real soft like that with
the palm of your hand. So, What I’d like to do now is just give her (throat clearing) say 20, 30 minute break and
just let her think about this. And then we can come back and finish off the rest of the lesson. But this is a great place to quit her, she’s given me two eyes and now when I do quit her, I want to walk away from her, I don’t want her to walk away from me. Let’s let her have some
time to think about it. (shimmering)

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