How to Create Wooden Garden Borders | Mitre 10 Easy As

Creating a boundary between
your lawn and garden beds can really improve the
look of your garden. Making a garden border
is easy, and there’s a range of different
kinds available, from modern to precast concrete. These macrocarpa sleepers
are easy to work with and are solid enough to
create a sturdy border around your garden. We’re going to follow the
existing garden’s shape so the sleepers will have some
simple lap joints and two 45 degree lap joints. Once I’ve laid out
the shape, we’ll knock three reinforcing
rods into each sleeper and concrete them
into the ground. OK. The first thing we need to
do is run a string line out, that way we’re going to ensure
that our maki sleepers are going to be nice and straight. OK. Now, to help us
out, I’ve just cut a little bit of off cut
of rio I pulled off a job. If you don’t have
one of these, you could suit yourself off
a profile or even just a nice little strong
stick in the ground. That’s all you need. So I’m going to come parallel
off the fence 1.4 meters, and that’s going to be to
the front of my sleepers. So let’s just knock
that in a little way. Now, we’re just going to go to
the other end of the garden, measure parallel off the fence
1.4, and run a string line. OK. So I run my string line out
and it’s going to come 1.4– cool. And we’re just going to use our
little reinforcing rod here. Now, because my backyard is
sloping downhill slightly, what I’m going to
do is just ensure that my sleepers are actually
parallel with the ground. So I’m going to measure
up on either end of this reinforcing
rod about 110 mm because our sleepers
around about 100 to 110 mm, so that way I’m going to ensure
that the top part of my string line is going to be the
top of the sleepers. So let’s just make
sure that we get our string line nice and tight. We don’t need any sags in it. OK. So we’re just going to come
back down to our first position and ensure that we
are approximately 110 off the ground. Now, just come back
to your second mark and just give that
a wee adjustment. We want to make sure
we’re 110 on their lawn so I just come back and
give that a wee little measure again. Like I said, that’s
looking pretty good. Next thing we’re going to do is
start prepping a maki sleepers. Now, there’s a couple
of different ways we can go about joining and
make these sleepers together. One is by cutting a 90
degree cut on the end of this and butting the sleepers
together nice and easy. But what we’re going to
do is create a let join. Now, to do this, we’re
going to need to cut and a [? rebate ?] like this. So we’re going to start
marking out the Maki sleeper. So let’s just get a dimension. Because some of these maki
sleepers are slightly thicker. You know, It is
rough sewn timber. That’s a 100 mil. Now, I’ve already squared
the end up 90 degrees. Now, to mark out
our let join, I’m going to come back
200 millimeters, let’s just square that across. Now, the thickness of
my sleeper is 100 mills so I’m just setting my
square to 50 millimeters, and come down and let’s just
run a line 50 millimeters all the way around. So this case we’ll mark that
on the top as all the timber that we’re going to
take out that’s going to create a let join. So let’s just mark
a few X’s on there to indicate that’s the piece
that we’re actually taking out. So the next thing is take
out a trusty circular saw. Let’s just set our blade to
a mark and lock that off. So we’re just going to
use the circular saw to run a whole lot
of fins in here, then we’re going to chop
them out nice and easy. We’ve cut out all our fins. Next thing we need to
do is use our chisel and follow our line
that we marked around in the first place. Now, when you’re
using your chisel, you always want to make
sure that the flat part of your chisel is on your
line and the beveled part is sticking up. We only need to go in a
couple of millimeters. All that’s going
to do is make sure that when we break
these fins off, we’ve already set the exact
line where we want them to go. And same on the back. All right. Next thing we’re going to do is
just break out all these fins. To do that, just
go nice and gently. And then anything that
might be left over, let’s just clear it up
using your chisel. Like I said, when
you’re using your chisel to hack out any little bits
that are left on there, just ensure that you’ve
got the bevel part of your chisel facing down. That way, your
chisel is not going to dig deep into
your timber, it’s always just going to
keep flicking out. Now, because the edge
of the garden is curved, we need to prep these
sleepers slightly differently. The sleepers will
be let join together about on a 45 degree angle. OK. What we need to do now is mark
out for a 45 degree rebate. So I’m just going to
set my combination square to 200 millimeters,
and mark that out for me a 45 degree cut. Let’s just put a
pencil mark there. Going back to our
combination square, let’s just move that all the
way down the end, and we’re going to use the 45
degree part of that and just mark our
45 degree line. Now, all we have to do
is just rebate this piece out, so we’re going to sit our
square to 50 millimeters again. Square that all the way
around, and then we’re just going to rebate
that out exactly like we did on the square end. We’re going to
mark out our holes and predrill them now to
take care our coach screws. Now, these coach screws are
going to link our two sleepers together. So first thing we
need to do, we’ve got a washer underneath
our coach screw. Now, I’ve got a 28
mill spade bit here. Now, I’ll just double check
that our spade bit is slightly bigger than our washer. OK. So we’re going to use our spade
bit first to predrill our hole. So I’m going to mark it out. Our left joint is 200 mill long,
so I’m going to come back 100, it’s going to be right
in the center of it, and we’re going to come
50 mill from each edge. I’ll just drill down
about 12 millimeters, and I kind of
guessed that, but you know what, you could do the
old trick of putting tape type around your spade bit
if you like so you know exactly how far to go down. But I know I only want to
get about 12 millimeters. A coach screw’s got
a 10 mill diameter, so I’m going to
predrill a 10 mill hole all the way through our
rebitted spade hole. OK. So let’s just lay our
first two pieces down, and let’s just keep that in
line with our string line. We do have a bit
more time later on to get that absolutely
mint so at this stage, we want to just draw everything. So I’m just going to predrill
a hole into our bottom piece. Now, the hole that we
drilled through the top was a 10 mill because we
got a 10 mill coach screw. Now, the hole that we want
to drill through the bottom is 7 mill, so that way our
coach screw’s got plenty of bite going into there. So at this stage, we just want
to drill through everything. OK. That’s pretty good. Now, we’re going to come back
over to our 45 degree corner. OK. So that’s not looking too bad. It’s going to use the clamp
to hold these two together. OK. Now, the reason
for our dry foot, I want to precut and
predrill everything, make sure everything’s
looking fantastic, ready for our next step. OK. Now, we’ve got our other
corner we have to do with here. The reason I ran my string line
all the way up past our corner here is because I’m
going to use that to get a parallel for other piece
that’s going across the front here. So just to help us
out, what I’ve got is just a long length
of timber, and I’m just going to lay that down. And I’m going to use this to get
parallel off our string line. So I’m going to be
900 millimeters away from our string line. OK. So let’s just measure 900
mm off our string line. It’s pretty good there. And we’ll come
down the other end to make sure that
we’re parallel. Right. So what we’re going to do
now is use the board just to mark on our sleeper
here at least that long. So let’s just mark that there. Now, I know that’s going to
be 45 degrees so I can just rebate that out exactly
the same as the other end, and I’m going to
just precut and do all the others ready
for our next step. I’ve completed the dry
[? foot ?] for all my sleepers and everything’s fitting nicely. I’m going to mark out the edges
of the sleepers with a spade so I know where to dig
my trench later on. And then remove the coach
screws at the corners. Now is a good time to
number your sleepers so you know what goes where. OK. The next thing we’re going
to do is secure our sleepers to the ground. Now, the reason I
want to do this, I want to make sure that this
edge is really nice rock solid. So to do this, I’m going
to drill some holes in the underside
of our sleeper, I’m going to whack in a rio
rod, come back over here, dig some holes in
the earth, and then pour some concrete in there
and then drop in our sleeper. Also, what I’m going to do is
scrape out about 50 millimeters underside of these to allow
for about 50 mill of scoria. So simply, my sleeper’s going
to sit on top of the scoria with the rebars concreted into
the ground to make it sturdy. OK. So what we need to do is mark up
where our hole is going to go. I’m going to put three holes
per length for maccy sleeper. So I’m going to come around
about 100 millimeters from the edge of our rebar. And let’s just
mark that up there. And we want to come down to
the center of our sleeper. You know what, it
doesn’t really matter where you put it as
long as you’ve got three relatively evenly spaced. OK. We’re just about ready
to drill our hole. Now, what I’ve done is measured
50 millimeters up my 10 mill drill bit and I’ll put some
tape around there that’s going to act as a guide so when
I drill through the sleeper, I know when I come up to that
mark not to get any further. We certainly don’t
want to go all the way through our sleeper. It’s going to look horrible
from the other side. We’re now ready to
throw on our rebars. Our reinforcing rods are
400 millimeters long. They fit into a 250 millimeter
deep hole, plus 50 millimeters of square on top. 50 millimeters goes
into the sleeper and there’s a 50
millimeter kick at the end. All right. Now, there’s a couple
of different ways we can cut it and bend it. Good old fashioned way. You can use an angle
grinder, or nice and simple, a hexle like this. And then to get the bend,
you could put it in a vise and just knock it
over 90 degrees. But an even simpler way is by
using that good old tool here, the cutter bender. So what I’m going to do
is mark out a rear rod and I want about a 50,
60 mill bend on it. First thing I’m going
to do is put a bend on. Open that right up. OK. Now, that’s giving me my 90
degree lovely [INAUDIBLE].. OK. So let’s just cut it to length. It just sits in there
nicely like that. And let’s just flip that over. We’ve got our rear
rods that we’ve cut. Now, all we’re going to do
is hammer them into a hole. Lovely. It’s nice and tight. Righty-oh, all our rods are in. Next, we’re going to do is mark
out where our holes are going to be to take our
concrete that our rods are going to slip into. For that, I’ve just cut up a
couple of these little pigs. You can use whatever you want. And on the outside
on our lawn, I’m just going to mark the
center of our hole. This is for later on. So let’s just whack these out. Righty-oh. It’s time to print
for our scoria. To do that, I’m
just going to scrape that little channel
about 50 mill deep, just the spines width. Righty-oh. She’s all scraped out. The next thing I need to do is
dig my holes for our concrete. So, once again, I’m just
going about the spade width, and I’m going to go down
about 250 millimeters deep. Finished on concreting and
my two straight sleepers, and then I’m going to move
on to the other sections. OK. So let’s just top these
holes up with concrete. Now, I’m laying my scoria
for the sleeper to sit on. It also helps with drainage. I got all my concrete
and scoria is ready to go for me to
put in my sleepers. OK. All we need to do
is roll this over, just ensuring they were
keeping a nice straight line with that string line. All right. So that’s looking actually
pretty good as it is. It’s sitting nice and
straight with my string line, and I’m level with the
top of the string line. I’m just going to use
a couple of peckers just to bring it
up a little bit. And that’s just going to ensure
that the weight of the sleeper isn’t going to push
the whole thing down. Lovely. Righty-oh, this is
looking really good. Now, all you have to do
is repeat the process for the rest of it. Now, I just go along and
tighten all the coach screws. OK. I’ve let my concrete
sit overnight. Everything’s
looking really good. There’s a couple of things I
need to do before we finish. I’m just going to
knock the sharp edge off using my trusty hand plane. And then I’m just going to give
the whole lot a light sand. Right. That’s looking really sharp. Now, could give that a stain but
I quite like that natural look. So there we have it,
macrocarpa garden borders. Easy as.

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