How to Repair Wood Rot. Dry Rot and Wet Rot.


(knocking) (whistling) – Hello. Hi, (chuckling) what’s this? Alright. It looks like a package
and it’s addressed to me. And it’s not even my birthday. Cool. Love a good surprise. I wonder what it is. Socks, maybe jocks. Nah. It’s a Rolex. It’s a box full of Rolexes. Yep. Yep, it is. Wouldn’t that be nice, a box full of Rolexes? Unfortunately it’s not. I actually know what’s inside here, so let’s cut it open and
I’ll show you what’s inside. OK. The suspense is killing me. Here we are. Alright. T-shirt, that’s nice. Some instructions. And what we have inside, we’ve got some woodfix, and also some patch it. Cool. Now these two products were sent to me from a company called Monsta Paints. They’re a relatively new
company here in Australia and they gave these to me free of charge to give you guys my initial thoughts on how their brand spanking
new product performs. Now, for the record, I am not getting paid in any way, shape or form from Monsta Paints to do this review. It is just my initial thoughts
on how this stuff performs, whether that be good or bad. Alrighty, on with the show. The woodfix and the patch
it work in conjunction with one another. Initially you apply the woodfix, which acts as a timber preservative, and the process kills all
that fungi and bacteria which creates that wet and dry rot. Once that’s dried, you then fill the void with the patch it. To test the product out,
I’ve got an old section of handrail, which incidentally
my neighbour has just thrown out because
it was starting to rot. If only he’d have come to see me. Oh well, but like I said, the product is designed
to repair timber rot in things like handrails, wooden windows, fascia boards and things of that nature. And if you have a close look here, I’ll show you what I mean. You can see here how
that timber is all soft. Water has gotten in and look at that. That is as rotten as a chop. The first thing we need to do is just to dig all this rotten and wet timber out before applying the woodfix. Use your chisel and a wire brush and just gouge all that out until we’re back to solid timber. (instrumental jazz music) OK, that’s looking pretty good. Now to scrub some sandpaper and sand back those edges. That’s looking very, very nice. And now we just need to apply the woodfix. Now what I really like about this product, and what initially twigged my interest are its credentials. It’s Australia’s only
100% environmentally safe timber or wood preservative. (sniffing) There’s absolutely no smell and it’s 100% safe. You will not see a hazardous
logo anywhere on that label. And the point to the
product is that it acts as a timber preservative. A bit like a rust convertor in a car. It kills all the fungi and the bacteria, which creates all this wood rot. And it puts strength back into the timber. It’s fire resistant, and once applied, it stops insects, bores, timber beetles and white ants from attacking the timber. So all in all, it’s a
fairly impressive product. Alright, I think that’s enough. We’ll give that 24 hours,
come back when it’s dry and apply the patch it. Shane, leave it alone. That’s enough. Just walk away from the timber. I repeat, walk away from the timber. Wait. That’s it. OK. It’s 24 hours later. Let’s check out that handrail. Alright, that’s dry, which is good. It’s slightly darker in colour and I can’t feel any soft or loose bits, so it’s nice and stable. And it kind of feels a
little bit sandpaper-y, which would be a great
surface for applying the patch it product to. Alright, let’s mix some of this stuff up, and fill in that void. Cool. Now the patch it has the
same credentials as woodfix. It’s 100% environmentally
safe, which is a big plus in my books. You will not see a hazardous logo anywhere on that product. If you open it up, like that, you’ll see that it’s just a powder. A lightweight powder that
you simply mix with water. Just like any product that
you’re mixing together, you do it as per the instructions on the container. So I’ll just drop in some water and then mix in this powder until we get a nice consistency. It doesn’t want to be sloppy, and it doesn’t want to be too firm. Kind of like mortar, a stiff mortar mix. So let’s mix it all up. I can feel that it’s very, very light. I’ve probably mixed that way more than what I actually need. (humming) OK. Pit mixing and when we
get a nice consistency, a workable consistency, we’ll fill that void in on that old handrail. Now that’s getting more like it. It’s like a stiff mortar mix, but still nice and light. And that should do the job beautifully. It still stays on the
trail, on the spatula. That’s perfect except
for that bit. (chuckling) Alright, let’s do it. Alright, so just squeeze the product into the damaged area. It’s coming in quite nicely. If it’s too sloppy it will just fall over the edge, so you want it nice and
firm, or firm enough that it’s gonna stay where you put it. Just like that. Work it in on the edges and when it’s dry, you
can saw it, chop it, sand it. Whatever you like. Now this stuff, like I said before, there’s nothing toxic, which is good, that’s a big tick. It’s not flammable. And that’s looking pretty good. So, what we’ll do is once I get it in the shape that I want, we’ll wait it for four to five hours so it dries completely. And then we’ll come back and sand it. I think if I was doing it again, I’d probly add a touch more water to it ’cause it’s going off pretty quick now. (instrumental jazz music) Alright. That’s looking pretty good. I’m gonna let this dry, come back and we’ll sand it down and see how it looks. And what about all that extra stuff? Maybe I can use it to fix up my boots. Seriously, what a disgrace. Get a new pair of boots, mate. Come on. No, they’re my favourites. Now for a water-based product, I was really surprised at how fast this stuff went off. It still needs four to five
hours to cure properly, but it’s 20 minutes later,
and that is firm to touch. It’s quite amazing. I wasn’t expecting that. Actually, I wasn’t quite
sure what to expect, but it possibly wasn’t that. Alright, let’s come back
in four to five hours and we’ll give that a hit with a sander and tidy it right up. Cool. OK, it’s the moment of truth. Let’s get this stuff a test. (banging) OK, first impressions. (banging) It’s incredibly hard, which is a good thing for a wood filler. I think what we’ll do
next is grab our sander and see how it sands back. I have an 80 grit paper on my sander, which is a reasonably coarse grit for this sort of work. I’ll just see how that comes up. We may need to bring it back to a 180, we’ll just wait and see. (instrumental jazz music) So far, that’s looking pretty good. I’ll keep going. Alright. That’s looking absolutely fantastic. I might just finish it off with a finer grit sandpaper, just doing it by hand. That looks absolutely perfect. So what do you reckon? I think it is absolutely fantastic. It feels beautiful and it sands back very easily. To tell you the truth, I was a bit worried after it dried initially
because I thought it was going to give off a grainy finish. But that’s all been sanded
back, so that’s great. And another thing I noticed
was that when you use a chemical filler, it tends to slump after the first coat,
which means you’ve got to come back later to do a second coat. This stuff didn’t slump,
therefore didn’t require a second coat, and that’s
a big tick from me. Alright, to finish this off, cover that with a primer,
then finish it off with a couple of coats of top coat. That’s a big thumbs up from me. So that’s it folks. I hope you enjoyed and found useful my review on how to repair wood rot using Monsta Paint’s woodfix
and patch it products. Alright. You know what? There’s not much point in having an environmental product
if it doesn’t do the trick. This stuff kills two birds with one stone. So well done, fellas. Alrighty, as per usual a big thumbs up for the
video is greatly appreciated and if this is your first
time onto my channel, please hit that subscribe button for more handy tips. OK, I think I need a cup of tea. So until next time, I’m out of here. Cheers.

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