Rebuilding a Chevy 396 big block engine: the dirty details | Redline Rebuild Explained S3E2


– What we’d get our balance, like within 1 gram or something, right? – Should we start with
alright or so? (laughing) We’re ready to rock and roll. All right, so. – (laughs) It’s all right. All right, here we are
with our Redline Rebuild of our 1969, 396 engine and this is just a little snippet of snow in Traverse City. This doesn’t show the other
two feet on the ground but note, that’s fresh
snow for the morning and there’s no salt, no nothing. Kind of cool to take a ride in a Camaro that doesn’t run very well
through the parking lot. – We resisted the urge to do donuts in it. – Yes, yeah, we didn’t feel that would have been appropriate. – Give me a little bit of
background on this car. – Oh certainly, so this car was actually totaled out a couple years back and we purchased it so we could do a training end of things
with our employees. So we do employee restorations and I headed up the restoration on this ’69 SS 396 Camaro. It has four speed Muncie, it fairly numbers-matching car I mean, for the most part, but it was crushed to use
our fancy laser pointer from the headlight to about halfway to the wheel well here on this side. It had also been sideswiped
and it had a lot of sins from previous repairs
and there wasn’t a panel that didn’t have filler. So, and I mean lots of filler. But yeah, so we completely
stripped this down, put it all back together, and refurbished the motor at that time. That was roughly five years ago. It’s been cross country, shoot, a dozen times or better I’d guess, and driven by a lot of people. It’s been driven hard. It’s kind of lived a hard life because it’s in our Driving Experiences which are during the summer,
they idle a long time. It’s gone through a
couple different clutches because we’re teaching people
how to drive in this vehicle and it’s also been like I said, on The Great Race one time and did very well. But yeah, so the motor
started burning some oil. – This Redline Rebuild
explained is different than our others in the
sense, that you guys already ya know, most of you
probably watching have some background on this already because we’ve been doing
our Redline update videos. – Yes, which is new for us so,
– Yeah. – we’re glad everybody’s
been kind of digging that. – For sure, and we will
get back into our Buick and we’ll get back into our
Model A here very shortly. – Yes. – But yeah, you guys,
there’s a lot of stuff that’s sort of known by anyone watching. But we’ll recap some stuff and probably refer back
to some of those videos and one of which is what
you’re just about to talk about which is what the problem
was with consuming oil and we’ll leave a link up here. – It’s usually here. – This side
– Okay, that side. – On the right side to the specific video where Davin goes through and
diagnoses all that stuff, but give us the sort of 30 second rundown. – Yeah, so the 30 second
rundown is it’s burning oil, it’s not leaking anything,
it’s running horrible, pulling plugs, they’re horrible. It’s got oil worse in one cylinder than it does all of ’em
but they all have some. And we do a quick compression test. We do a dry, then a wet,
and we do a leak down test. At the end of the day, we’re convinced that it’s not the valves, meaning the valve seals are not leaking and it appears to be all in, not all, worse in number three than it is in the rest of the cylinders. The plug was basically no gap based on oil and crust in there. That was just nasty and that’s
the way I feel in the morning after about four cups
of coffee. (laughing) – Yeah, now of course
this is just a teaser bit going through here, of quick shots that
are maybe a few frames, but I left this in here because it’s fun.
– Yeah. – We’ll get to that though, but that’s just a quick
teaser of, yes, it was worn. It had lived a hard life
for the last five years. – And for everyone out there that says, “That shoulda lasted longer than that.” They’re 100% true.
– Yep. – That’s 100% correct. And in circumstances where it’s 100% perfectly maintained which I’m not saying that
we do not maintain our cars ’cause that’s not the case. But when they do go out on the road, some things happen, people
aren’t aware, whatever, and I know specifically
this was run at some point with about two quarts of oil in it, and we can see what happens. – [Ben] Let’s get into
this, pulling the engine. Anything in particular? – Nope.
– Interesting to tell us? – Pretty straightforward. It’s very nice to have
a little extra hand, though, gettin’ the hood out
of the way because I hate, I did the paint work
on this and body work, and I really hate to do it twice. But no, as far as, it’s straightforward. Drain the cooling system,
disconnect the four wires. Ya know, two wires going
to the coil and distributor and the alternator and that’s
it from a wiring standpoint. That part of it’s beautiful. And get the exhaust
down enough so you can, ya know, obviously disconnect
it from the exhaust manifolds so the motor can come up and out. – [Ben] But you, in previous
stuff, we’ve pulled engines with the transmission
attached and you just– – Yeah, I didn’t want to do that here. Well, I didn’t do it here because of the, a manual transmission comes out so easy and you can just leave
the bell housing on. It’s nice and short. You don’t have to have such a ridiculous approach
angle to get in and out. Even with the hoist,
you get a lot of room. – But you just, I mean you just were able to just yank it out of there.
– Yeah. – [Ben] Hoses, fan, accessories. – [Davin] Yeah, that’s
always tricky, right there. So I got the fan out there, but typically, you end
up pulling the shroud, the shroud fan is always so
close it can be a little, a little bit of an order
thing to get that out, but. And then I stripped down
the front of this motor ’cause I couldn’t remember
exactly how much room I had. So that’s why in this, at the teardown, I take everything off I can
off the front of the engine and make it as short as possible. – [Ben] So there it is. – Here it is. – Not as grimy as– – Yeah, not as grimy as
some, but it’s dirty. It needed a good wipe down. It’s kind of apparent
to me that the intake of the in seals are leaking on this and probably needed to be
checked up on the torque on the intake manifold
at some point in time. And I think we see this
later as well because– – [Ben] Well, there were, we
sort of as we went through it, there were definitely some spots where things were looser than maybe they should’ve been. – Which happens, as it heat
cycles, you start to ya know, everything’s moving around and it’s a good idea to
go back through there. So everybody note the beauty of the trees in the
background, snow covered. – Snow’s melted off the– – We did donuts right after that I think. – All right, there it is
ready to get the treatment. – Yep, so there’s been some questions and we’ll see it as we go here. I know there’s been, here
sorry, get my pointer out. There’s been some question on what these tubes are and what this is, is the California air emissions system of the day. So in ’69, what they did is they have a, there’s an air pump that
runs off the accessory belt and literally what it did is, it diluted the exhaust with more air. So it didn’t improve the
efficiency of the motor. In fact, it took efficiency away because you’re yanking a pump around and dragging it, if you will. So that was actually a
big performance upgrade as people would pull that pump off and then just literally
put pipe plugs in here. And most of the time, you cannot, I mean, they make these in aftermarket now, for the restoration side of things, but ya know, originally,
these are thrown away because the system was dumb.
– Yeah. – I mean, it really didn’t do anything. – And we talked about this in some of the update
videos as well, but this is, in addition to this being
a driving teaching tool, this car is also used as just kind of a general teaching about
old cars, in general. – Oh yeah, absolutely. – And so having something
like that is a nice thing to like when you pop the
hood and some kid goes, “Man, what’s that?” – Exactly. – Then you can say, well, and give them the explanation
– Right. – that you just gave.
– Yep, exactly. – [Ben] I think it’s funny
that those were just, all they did was add air. – [Davin] Just add air. – It wasn’t making, it just– – Solution to pollution
is dilution, right? As they used to say. – Yep, yep. Stuff comin’ off, as usual. – Nice original chrome valve covers. – [Ben] One of the concerns, I think you can see it here, right? – Yeah, so again, we’re
still in the call it, diagnostic phase, right? ‘Cause we’re still trying to
see where this oil’s coming, going into the runners, into the intake. So this is on the intake
side of the heads, and you’ll see that every one of these has some amount of oil, or appears to be oil in the runners. Now this is the front of the engine, so right here’s number three. It really doesn’t look worse. This one looks, would be, this would be six. Six looks worse than the rest of them, as far as the consumption’s concerned. But what I noted is, every one of ’em has oil down in this edge of the seal. So my suspicion is, is
that intake manifold just was not sealing as well. So what happens is, on your intake stroke, as it has vacuum being created
within the cylinder chambers, it’s drawing fuel down
through that intake runner and it can, if there’s
a leak into the valley it’ll also drag oil in with– – Yeah, you can, well, where’s my, I keep thinking it’s a projector, but you can see the gum and all. – Yeah, there you go. Yep, perfect, yep. That’s a good, another possum
path for it or possibility. And really at the end of the day, what we’ve kind of come to, is there’s no one particular smoking gun. Literally everything was smokin’, so a whole lot of little things. So between the intake, and between potentially being overheated at some point with the rings. Compression was decent,
but it wasn’t grand. – This next shot here,
people were quite jealous of your engine that disassembles itself.
– disassembles itself? Oh yeah, that takes a, ya know, you always
have the folks that do, like Cesar that does
the talking to the dogs and the animals, the whisperer? – [Ben] Oh yeah. – Well, you have to
spend some time with it and whisper ya know, the rules
of how things are gonna go. – And sometimes they don’t listen, so you gotta do it yourself. – Well, yeah. Sometimes it takes ya know,
you gotta provoke ’em. – [Ben] People were happy
to see your speed wrench. – [Davin] Oh, speed wrenches are the best.
– Gettin’ some use. Because I won’t let you use power tools. – Ah, I don’t use ’em anyway. I mean, I do but I wouldn’t
‘ve used them on that. – Just goes too fast. It’s not as artistic, when you’re just firing
stuff off with them. – And those heads are heavy. Just as a general number,
they’re like 80 to 90 pounds, somewhere around there. They’re definitely no small block. – Yeah we don’t have the
audio from this clip. Oh wait, there’s– – Yeah, right there. That says it all.
(Ben laughing) – [Ben] Yep, that’s a good one, too. The grunt face. – Oh yes. It wouldn’t be as hard
if I was a little taller, I mean, I should get a stool. Get a little taller there. – Wear some thicker boots. – Buy a good puller.
– Yep. – If you’re gonna do any engine work, I mean, I should say good. Buy a puller. They’re not expensive. You can get into a cheap
Fuller, like 20, 30 bucks. And you need it to install it as well Don’t beat your thrust
washer, thrust bearings up on the install
– There are times for a hammer and times not for a hammer.
– Yes. Yep, exactly. – Yep, there ya go, it just
slides the thing right on. – Just pulled it right off. There’s mild, there’s like
a thou clearance there, interference
– and I will apologize for, we were gung-ho tryin’
to get this thing done ahead of deadline and we missed, in some of the Redline updates. Some of the things, where
I think you actually go through and explain. – Oh, okay. – But fortunately for us, we’re gonna be constantly
rebuilding engines– – Yeah, we’ll revisit the same idea again. – We’ll take the time to
hit stuff that we missed, when it comes to Buick
or any future engines. – So out comes the, now this had a flat tappet camshaft. So hydraulic lifters but a flat tappet. – [Ben] Gotcha, and
we’re not reusing that. – [Davin] And we’re not reusing it, no. – Some more self di– – Do you notice how fast they spin out? They actually throw oil up onto the pan. You see that? – [Ben] Yeah, I see that. – [Davin] See look it, right there. Isn’t that awesome! – Yeah, there’s definitely was no oil on my fingers after that. (Davin laughing) Was there anything,
when you pulled the pan, anything that you saw down here? Any shrapnel, any anything? – The only thing I found was in the, there was no metal or none of that, but I found pieces of grommet from the PCV valve. At some point in time during
the rebuild to this point where that rubber grommet
had crystallized, we’ll say, and must have fell in there, ’cause it was in the
pickup of the oil pump. ‘Member we were pulling them chunks out? – Oh, yeah. – That’s what I finally decided, that’s what those were. – We were wondering what that was. – Yep. – So out come the pistons,
out comes the crank, – Main tank.
and then we’ll get to a shot here, in terms. Well, you can see it a little bit. – Yep, right here, you can see it. You’re looking at the bearings to understand where things were at. Now, we had no knock and
none of that type of thing, but that amount of wear, you see the brass going
through the bearing material. – [Ben] Yep. – That’s a little much. I mean that looks like, I wouldn’t expect that
after, I don’t know, say 50,000 miles, not 20, 30. So that was, it was gettin’– – Yeah, you can see it down
here on the inside too. Yeah, it’s very apparent, even not, even not a close-up view.
– Right. – And that is most likely
a result of the times when it had very little oil in it. – Where it had very little oil in it, yes. Yep, and when you get here, we can see– – This is what it should look like. – Yep, that’s a good one. That’s actually ending
up being on the intake, but the point is the same. Exhaust’ll show up on the exhaust first. Exhaust valves obviously get
hotter than the intake valves, just by pure, what they’re doing. Intake versus exhaust. So your exhaust needs more oil to keep things lubricated and cool, and you can see what
happens when it doesn’t. This is mushroomed over and at some point in time, either we got really lucky that the the hydraulic
lifters were set deep enough, if you will, or when you set the lash, you preload the lifters on hydraulics. And that was preloaded enough that, that amount of wear didn’t
show up as a clatter. – Oh, okay. – Now my suggestion is that it probably did clatter, but whatever. But yeah, that is not good, at the end of the day, no
matter how you slice it. This is bad, really, really bad. – The close-up, yeah, no. You can see it’s cracked, it’s just– – Oh, yeah. – And that wasn’t the only
one that was like that. Almost all the exhaust, right? – Yeah, every exhaust,
none of the intakes were, but all the exhaust were. To the point where we had to grind ’em off to get ’em of course
down through the guide. – Now looking at this, right here. – Yep. – [Ben] Is all that garbage, in a sense? You’re not re-using anything? – We could have reused the push rods. The rocker arms, coulda
reused all the intake rockers, but on the exhaust side, some of ’em had a little little notch, of course with the heat. I don’t recommend reusing
timing chains and gears. I mean, unless you know,
you just put ’em in there and they have no miles
on ’em or something. The camshaft was startin’
to show some wear. Went through and miked it out. It was startin’ to get a foul or two, here or there, but again it’s time. It was time for an
upgrade as well, meaning in stock form, it was fine, but it needed a little bit more. – Bring that excitement. – Yeah, get a little excitement, I mean, it’s Hugger Orange for god sakes. It shouldn’t accelerate less than a Toyota Camry, a beige one.
– Right. – So, just my opinion. – That was our mission. – That was my mission, other than– – Eating bagels. – Eatin’ that bagel. (laughs) – A few people caught it, although some of the comments
said it was a donut, but no– – Bagel, loaded with cream cheese. Heck, yeah. – [Ben] So, first step when
we hit Thirlby is always– – Bakin’! Clean and bake, bake and clean. So bake, tumble, wash, right? Over here, already to the heads. So we gave ’em the, I’ll call it the full treatment. We put brand new seats in
it, all the way through. Intake and exhaust. I didn’t want anything left to suspect. – [Ben] And also– – And also, brand new, they
refer to ’em as K-liners, but new liners in the guides. So the guides weren’t destroyed. They just needed a fresh
liner pushed into ’em. And then of course, reamed out the sides and that sort of thing is good. – But then over, to our seats. – Yep, so cut the old seats out, put brand new seats in. – [Ben] And you’re using
hardened seats here. – [Davin] Hardened seats
on the exhaust, yes. Standard.
– [Ben] As far as fuel goes, and stuff, you’re– – [Davin] Yeah, that way
there’s no issues with the non-unleaded fuels. – Right. This is a process that
we’ve seen a bunch of times. It’s still cool, every
time we go in there, I’m just mesmerized by all the stuff. And we are fortunate to
have a shop like Thirlby, right in our small town. And they actually, they’re completely building engines for people. – [Davin] Yeah, they have been. They started doing that,
– which is cool. – again, yep. – [Ben] I saw a billboard the other day. – Yep, so we decked out the
cylinder head, cleaned it up. – This is something new. – Yes, so right here, we got a little new. Was that just the heads, before? Or was that the block as well? On the deck.
– On the, it was both. Both the heads and the block. – So, question here, I know, the folks that are all
worried about numbers. So go ahead and back up. Back up to the milling. Okay, we can stop there for right now. So the question has always been, “Well, when you deck the block, “you will lose the numbers
that are stamped on the block.” Because that number pad
on a Chevy is right here above the water pump. So it’s right here on this deck. It’s out on the outside edge, so it’s not part of the sealing surface. That comment is 100% correct. When you deck it, you
will take the stamping outta here, ’cause they’re
hand stamped at the factory. From I think it’s ’68,
up there, the VIN number, the last couple digits of the VIN number is in that sequence to
match it 100% to that car. Now, in this case, the casting number is what would’ve been in that car. When we got the car it
had already been cut off. – Oh, okay. – So there was nothing to save. – Gotcha. – So we just cleaned it off and decked it. Now, however, if you wanna save that, you can still deck the block. What you have to do, is stop
that big cutting wheel short. – Yep, which we’ve done with– – Which we did with something else. I don’t remember what it was. – Either the 289 or the– – Yeah, I don’t remember – Maybe the flathead?
– It might’ve been, No, it was another project. – Gotcha. – But anyhow, you can stop
short and leave those in there. Your machinist will not
want to do that because it’s well, a pain.
– More work for them. – It’s more work. So anyhow, just to address
that, that’s what can be done. So relative to this block,
when measuring this block we were already, it had
.030 over pistons in it. It had already wore to .040 – [Ben] Oh wow, I’d forgotten
that it was that much. – Yeah, so and actually it was closer to, it was almost closer to
.045, so it was wore. We opted not to do a
typical bore and hone, borewise because the next
size piston is 60 thou, so you’re only, we were only
like 15 thou away from that. So what we opted to do
is use a torque plate which is what this blue,
this big plate on top, this blue torque plate. And the idea is, you torque that down, it distorts the bores,
just like it will be when the head is torqued down. But obviously, it has a big through hole, so you can run the hone
up and down through there. Now this is a very typical function to do on like a race engine, where
you’ve got a little higher RPM and you’re really tryin’ to squeeze all the horsepower out of it. Normal street applications,
this really isn’t, I don’t want to say it’s not
necessary, it’s just not done. It’s an extra charge, blah, blah, blah. – Yep. – But what we did is we put in
a little more aggressive hone and basically used the hone
to take that material out. So normally we would only hone maybe ya know, a few thousandths,
to get that final size. In this case we actually
used the hone to cut. Again an aggressive hone so
it would cut that cylinder out and it did a very nice
job, does a very nice job. So that’s why this is slightly different than what we’ve done in the past. – [Ben] So, the short of it meaning that when it’s torqued down,
it’s a perfect cylinder. – Correct. Yes. Yeah, so the side part of that is, is when you do all your
measurements assembly wise. – Oh!
– You could have some stuff that you’re like, hey, my bores not round! – Depending on which way
– Exactly. – you measure it. – So you just have to be aware of that. And it really only comes
in when you’re filing rings and gettin’ that set. You might have to have a ring, your rings might need to be
opened just a little bit more if you can’t get the
pistons down the hole. – So of the piston assembly, we’re re-using the rods,
– Correct. – But new piston heads and new hardware? – Yeah, so we’re using, yep, so we took, we pushed out the bolts, we put fresh ARP bolts in, as far as the rods are concerned, resized the big end and the small end, and we stuck with pressed clip. – So here he’s just cleanin’
off the surfaces of the– – Yeah, he’s sizin’ the rods on the width, the caps, and that. – And then makes them
circles again and sizes them. – [Davin] Yep, yep. – Again, all stuff that
we’ve talked about before and if you’re super-interested
in any of this, I’m sure we go into more
in-depth of it in the other ones. – Yeah, and we opted to reuse
the rods for the horsepower we were gonna make, they’ll be fine. We’re also gonna reuse the crankshaft. It did need to be turned. Now, for this motor, I’ll say tried a little different process, and somebody’s gonna be like, “Well, duh, you should
always be doin’ it that way.” Well, typically what you do
is you measure your crankshaft and you say, okay, it’s
not within spec anymore, and that spec has a range. So then what you’ll do is you send it out and you have the crank
grinder will cut it to ya know, the next size, .010 over, .020 over, and it’s still in a spec range. Now that range, you could fall
into where you have bearings that are at the large end as far as the ID would be concerned and then your OD on your crank
could be at the small end. And that, it’s possible that you stack up and have a little more oil
clearance than you wanted. I wanted to have two
and a half thousandths on both the rods and the mains. So what I did is, we took and we torqued down bearings just like we do when we
check ’em at assembly, we just did it ahead of time. So we put ’em in, cap on, put a bearing in, measured it. – Oh, okay. – And then said, okay, I
need this specific size on the mains, I need this
specific size on the rods. – Now there was a question in terms of, and we’ve done this before and we’ve talked about this before, but when it is and is not
necessary to do an align hone. To make sure all of your mains are– – Right.
– Are straight, right? – Yes.
– or in line. – The biggest time to do
that is when you don’t have, you’re either changing main caps, or you don’t have the original main caps. – Oh, okay. – I know that’s a very vague statement, and there’ll be plenty
of people screamin’ that, “No, you gotta do it all the time.” Nope, I don’t believe that’s the case. In a street engine, I don’t think you need to have it align honed, unless something like that is changing. Because you start to get, when you do align hone,
you could get into issues relative to your timing chain because it tends to move
that crankshaft a little bit. So you could start to get into
some other differences there. I tend to stay away
from it whenever I can. – Doin’ a little polish, and
then, what’s he doin’ here? – All right, so what he’s
doin’ here is it’s a, it’s kind of a polite thing to do for the next person that opens this motor up. You already wrote on there,
ya know, A, it’s a 396 crank, the mains are .020, and the rods are .020. So .020 on the crank would be undersized and then .020 undersized on the rods. – Gotcha. All right, now we’re over at Apex. – Yep, Apex Competition
Engines to do the balance work. He happens to be, like
what is it 45 minutes, half hour, roughly, a half hour east of the guy that grinds crankshafts. So that was ridic–
– We did it all in a day. – Yeah, we did it all one day. It was very convenient and
they were very accommodating to us and they build
some really sweet engines on a race standpoint. – You might see in the
back, the background, up here and whatnot,
that there are some cool engines in there, for sure. So we did it for the Hemi. – Yeah, we balanced the Hemi and I can’t remember if we bal– I don’t think we balanced anything else. – No, I think that was it. – So we balanced the Hemi and we balanced the Hemi relative to what it was gonna be used for. Again, a race application,
a little higher RPM. Now the reason I balanced this engine because it is a street motor. I was changing pistons, the crankshaft had been balanced before. It was just one of those things, like, you know what, let’s balance this because it seems I have a
really big mismatch of stuff. And I knew there was a gear in its future, so instead of going just
from that 307, 308 gear, I wanted to take it to a 342 gear which on the highway, it’ll
run a little bit higher RPM. So to get away from the
folks that’ll be like, “Oh, you can’t turn a big
block that fast all that time.” Well, you can if you balance it. So for the couple 100
bucks, in the afternoon, it made a lot of sense
just to have it balanced and not have to be concerned about it. And we get it balanced relative, at the end of the day we’re
like a gram, within a gram. And the idea is, and I
don’t know what the numbers are exactly, but at I
think the number’s like at 4,000 RPM, if it’s outta balance by, ya know, it’s like 10 grams
or something like that, it’s equivalent to like a 400
pound ya know, hit, impact. So, and that’s on every
piston, every time. So the idea is ya know,
you balance things out so it’s not out of, out of balance. – So these weights
basically directly correlate to each of the rod-piston assemblies. – Correct. – Then he puts it on
this machine, spins it, and the machine tells him where to take weight out of the crank. – Yep. Yeah, it’s measuring,
it’s got load sensors on both of those ends, so
it’s measuring how much, it does the same thing
as a tire balancer does. So it senses that and it gives
’em a direction on there. And based on his experience
he knows how much, I’ll say how much to
drill out or take away from counterweights on each end. Because there was times
where he was takin’ out of the front, but it
really needed to come, according to the machine,
needed to come out of the back. But knowing that if you
take so much outta the back, then you throw the front outta whack, so he was takin’ some out of the front and gaining it in the back. It’s a balancing act. – [Ben] He’s done it a bunch, so. – [Davin] He’s done a bunch of ’em. – [Ben] Again, yeah, you
can see all the engines in the background.
– Yeah. And back to that bob weight. So, when you talk about what
that weight was attached to there, as it’s being slung. That weight encompasses the piston, and everything’s matched. So every piston was the same weight, or made to be the same weight. The rods are all made
to be the same weight. Those are your two main components. Then you have your wrist
pin and your rings, and it accounts for
that complete assembly, and the bearings. So really the only thing
that would be left, is if in use if one ring,
or one piston assembly had more oil on it, than the next which isn’t enough to make a difference. – You don’t really see it much here, but do you see that he’s
weighing the ends of the, not just weighing them as a whole thing– – [Davin] No, uh-uh. – [Ben] Where the weight actually is. – Yes.
– And then, yep, weighing the piston.
– Weighing the pistons out. – The clips, the– – And then at the end
of the day, you getta, ya know, I have a balance sheet. – Yep. – So if I need to, let’s say
we had a problem down the road. You wanna hang on to these balance sheets because if you run into a problem later and let’s say you burn a hole in a piston, or you have to replace a piston, it doesn’t damage anything else, whatever. But you need to just replace that piston. Well, you’d come back to this and say, hey, I need a piston that weighs, in this case 678, and then you match it and then you can put
it right back together. You don’t have to
rebalance the whole works. – Ah, that’s cool. I didn’t know that. All right, so get through that. Lots of drillin’ and spinnin’
and drillin’ and spinnin’. – And you see, he’s got the balancer and the flywheel on there. That’s important as well. – [Ben] All part of the spinning assembly. – [Davin] Yep, yep. Since it’s internally balanced those are zero balanced, are
considered zero balanced. – And you just get to enjoy
– on the fires. – yourself over there. – I did. Yeah, we were swapping stories. I was askin’ him a lot of questions. He was probably, I was
like my nine year old boy, askin’ me everything under the sun. – Or like me with you, whenever
we do any of this stuff. Wait, Davin, why are you doin’ that? Why, why? – Any knowledge you can gain, ask. – So assembling the pistons now. – Yep, so usin’ a heat
induction to heat up the small end of the rod and basically physically forcing the, well, not forcing, ’cause it’s opened up and slide the wrist pin in, and boom! – But quickly. – Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. ‘Cause it cools quick. Everything’s a heat sink. So we are now over at
Traverse Body and Paint, using their wash bay and
cleanin’ everything up, even though this just
came out of the washer, you still have to do that fine tune. – [Ben] You want that paint to stick. – And you want the paint to stick. So Dawn dish soap to the rescue in a solution and brush everything out, dry everything up real well. That is the key, by the
way, is as you dry that, it doesn’t show any of that. So after you’re washing
it, is you need to blow, I probably blew air across
it, every hole, everywhere. – You might see it. – And you see, just a little haze, ya know, right there. Ah, no, we just jump off it.
– Ah, no, it’s just drippin’. – So by no means, let it sit in the corner and dry itself because you will have a surface rusted piece of iron. Tape everything off that
you don’t want painted. – [Ben] And then you’re usin’
an automotive paint, here? – Yes, in fact there’s
an automotive sealer, that was the gray part, and then, PPG happens to be mixed automotive paint. – [Ben] Oh, okay. – And that is still by far,
the best way I’ve found, although there might be another coating that I’m interested in
trying, we’ll have to see. – All right. – But this works very well. It holds up, keeps a nice gloss, it’s always better than rattle can, but sometimes that’s what you have to use. – And thanks to Traverse Body & Paint, – Oh, yeah.
– for again, ya know, like any of these guys,
lettin’ us come in there and– – Take over there space. – Yeah, not only get the work done, but me stickin’ cameras on things. – And completely kill their
efficiency for the day. – Can you do this, but do it
at like a quarter of the speed that you normally do it? Thank you. – Yeah, yep. So back at the shop,
self-peeling tape, oops Got an arm in there, damn.
– Phantom arm comin’ in there. – It was a shadow, must’ve been a shadow. – Looks good. Shiny. – Yep, it is shiny. So, putting in cam bearings with our, I think this might be the first time we, oh, it was the second
time we used this tool. Brand new tool, man it worked so nice. – [Ben] Up until the last
engine and this engine, every time we went to do this it was– – A nightmare.
– Oh no, how are we gonna do this. And we borrowed four different
tools that sort of worked. – [Davin] Well, and you quickly found out that wore out tools didn’t work very well, unless you were using them every day. – [Ben] We definitely — – So invest in a cam tool, or
have a shop do it, I guess. – And we definitely went through a couple bearings,
– Oh yeah. that ended up in the recycle bin. – The flathead was two sets of bearings, the Mopar was two sets of bearings. – Shh, we don’t tell anybody
that we do anything wrong. – Oh yeah, that’s right. – Everything’s perfect. – Yep. Putting in a brass freeze plugs. You notice I invested
in some nylon drivers. – There was a question in terms of what you were putting
on the freeze plugs. – Yeah, so I always put
on the freeze plugs, either steel or brass. I use High Tack, is what
it’s called, like a gasket, call it a liquid gasket maker. It is sticky nasty crap, but it works really well.
– And the point being. – The point being is any
additional surface imperfections like from rust or whatever, it just gives it a better chance to seal. And I prefer the brass
freeze plugs over the steel. I feel that they move better. Not that steel are bad, by any means. And it looks sexier. – It does look nice. – Unless you want ’em to
blend in, and that’s fine too. – I love our autonomous engine. – The motorized crane
– Picker – Is really nice, yes. And again using our serpentine
belts, away she goes. – There’s not a video that
goes by, where people go, “What’re you usin’ the
serpentine belt for?” – Beautiful! And in that case you don’t have to worry, you put a chain around there and you’re beatin’ up your main. – Yep. – Now, like a nylon strap would do the same thing, but the rubber’s nice. And self-peeling tape again. As it rotated, did ya check that out? Stuff just falls off, it’s great! – Okay, so here’s another
important step of the process. – [Davin] Yep, so even if you buy rings that don’t need to be filed, let’s say, you still wanna check them. So what you end up doin’, is you put them, and I happened to buy
this fancy little tool, you can use whatever, but
the idea is you wanna have the rings square to the bore. Put ’em down about an inch, roughly. I think that puts ’em
down maybe a half inch. But somewhere below the lip. – That’s this tool right here.
– Yeah, that’s what this tool is, yep, right there. And you can see it’s
adjustable for multiple. It’s pretty handy. But that takes, and you
set the ring down in there and then you use a pair of feeler gauges which is this and then
I have my directions up here in the corner,
can’t quite see ’em here, right there, so, – Get up, and–
– and what that amounts to is the ring manufacturer will tell you, “all right, for the
compression, the top ring, “or the second ring you
want x amount of clearance “for every inch of bore.” In this particular case,
it was, if I recall it was four thousandths clearance in gap, for every inch of bore. This is roughly four inches,
it was, I forget exactly. And you can always set ’em
just a little bit more. The last thing you want
is them to be tight. So I set them to, I think it was .018, .020, sorry. I set both of ’em at .020. I think it was probably
four and a half on that. But anyhow, whatever
it says, run it there. The normal run is someplace between .018 and .022 is pretty typical. – So you can see you have your rings set down in there. – Yeah, exactly, yep. So I’m goin’ in and then
up here in this corner, right up here, in the
vice is a ring filer. So the idea is, you take, and
you can see it right there. You take and push it up in
there and then you spin it. It’s like a diamond wheel
and it grinds off real slow. Go slow. What I end up doin’ is I push against it. You get a feel for how hard your pushing, ’cause that changes how much it takes off and then I count the turns. So ya know, 10 revolutions,
might be, ya know, two thou, or somethin’ like that,
whatever it works out to be. And you just keep goin’ back and forth. And then just before you, and that’s what this is here, is a little hand file. As you’re filing the end of that ring you will raise a bur up
on the opposite side, and you wanna take your hand file and just lightly hit those edges and take the bur off. You don’t want any bur. That bur will score the bore and you kinda lost the whole point, I mean, to some extent. I mean, it’s not the end of the world, but it’s best to do it.
– But it’s those little things. It’s all those little things.
– It is. It’s the little things. – We talked about how
all those little things can add up to the problem
that we had with it. – Oh, exactly right. – When you’re puttin’ it back together, it’s those little things
that will hopefully avoid those bad things happening.
– Exactly. And then as you do those,
it is extremely important, you are setting the end
gaps relative to that bore, so that set to that
bore, keep ’em straight. Here’s number eight,
here’s seven, five, six, so on and so forth. As I go through them, I keep ’em together. And then put a big do not touch these. – I think actually before you’ve taken just like a little piece of tape and like taped ’em to the tape.
– Taped ’em. Yeah, when it was gonna
be a little longer, we put these in the next day, so we didn’t have that much of a time. Now I’m goin’ through and
checkin’ my bearing clearances, torque all the mains in. Use the comparator gauge,
go in and check ’em, write down my numbers,
two and a half thou. Two and a half on everything,
but the rear is at three which is dead perfect for what I wanted. And I used the previous bolts for that. – Okay. – Just as a point. The red assembly lube, I have found, stays where you put it. So that is why I have changed, now, not that the typical white molybdenum isn’t good, but I like this a lot better. It stays there, it doesn’t drip. And it’s the choice of top
fuel dragsters, I mean. – That’s where we picked it up from. – That’s where I got it
from, was from Schumacher’s. – If you go back and look at our our previous Redline
Rebuilds when we’ve used the molybdenum, in the time lapses, you can see you put all that stuff on there and then you see it all
go just ble, ble, ble and gloop down and this stuff,
you could leave for a week and it would look
– Yeah, stay right there. – exactly the same. – It does. It works really nice. – I feel like you also, you use less. – Oh, yeah, you do. – Because it’s stayin’ in place. – Oh heck, yeah. – Where you used to just be like, paah! – I used a whole tube because
you kept reapplying it. And then it’s in the pan. But, at any rate, and it
all mixes in with the oil when you start up, there’s no concern, that is what it’s for. – So you torqued with the old main bolts, but everything’s getting
a whole new setting of ARP bolts.
– Brand new ARP’s. All ARP bolts with washers. Using the lube, the ultra-torque lube, and then going to, I
forget what those were, it makes a difference here, so mains got torqued to 100 foot-pounds. – And what do ya–
– And do that in increments. I can’t stress that enough. You can’t expect the part to come down and set nice where it needs, nice and level, by torquing one bolt to 100 foot-pounds and
leaving the other one loose. So they always, the general rule of thumb is take whatever your max torque is and divide it into three
steps in some amount, and go. So for instance, ya know,
do one bolt at say 30, the other one at 30, and then bounce it up to maybe 60 and 60, and
then a 100, and a 100. – So you don’t go 30, through
every single one of ’em, and then 60 through every single one? – No, ’cause I usually put ’em on, you wanna put ’em on one at a time and the reason I put ’em on,
main caps on one at a time, or torque them one at a time, ’cause you torque it
and turn it to make sure that cap didn’t bind up. – So you know if there’s a
bind, you know which one it is. – Exactly, right! Yep, exactly.
– I gotcha. – And caps have a, ya know,
we talked about before, caps have an absolute position and an absolute direction. So from the factory, most
of the time there’s an arrow pointing to the front that’s
cast right into the cap and a lot of ’em will even, ya know, some of the
manufacturers will put a cast in number, as well. Otherwise during your tear down procedure, you need to make sure
it has numbers on it. Because you do not wanna, I’ve had that where you got one switched, wasn’t labeled or whatever
and you got it flip-flopped and then it bound up. – Now here you are? – So here, what I’m doin’
is, every crankshaft will have one bearing that’s
considered a thrust bearing. On Chevy’s it’s typically– – You’re using that
against this surface here. – Yeah, I’m just using it
to grab off the crankshaft. So what I’m doing is, you have clearances on the radius side of things, but then you also have
in-clearance going back and forth and the bearing at the
back, the main bearing has the thrust service on there. So what I’m doing is prying the crankshaft all the way to the back,
zero in my dial indicator, or at least knowin’ what the number is and then pulling it all
the way back this way. – Okay. – And there I’m just pushin’ on it. At the end of the day, you
just usually use a screwdriver or something in there to
put some real load to it. So you wanna pry it all the way, one way, and all the way back. That gives you your in-clearance. There it is with the screwdriver there.
– There you are, prying there. – So checkin’ it, and it’s
like three or four thousandths, five thousands, I forget
what the exact number is. Aah, so actually what the
exact number on that was four and a half thousandths. They had my, so as you’re building an
engine, do yourself a favor and write everything down
and what you set it to. ‘Cause let’s say you run into a problem and something happens and the first thing somebody is gonna ask you is, “Well, what did you set this or that at?” Well, if you don’t know,
you can’t answer ’em. And they can’t give you an answer. It’s just as simple as that. And it makes you look like
you know what you’re doin’. – Somebody just walks into your garage and sees a bunch of those big,
long decimal point numbers, they go, “Man this guy’s smart!” – Wow, he knows all the math. – [Ben] Getting pistons ready to go. – Yep, so now just, yeah,
going through and putting in the rod bearings and checkin’ the clearance. Torque the cap down, check the clearance. Obviously, take the cap back off. Write down my numbers and then putting your rings and such on. Rings have a position. There is a top and a bottom. And then there’s your oil control rings. Your oil control rings, they don’t care which one’s top or bottom. They’re both the same. But the idea is you do have to locate the end gaps where they need to be at. – So you’re– – You don’t want ’em in line. It’s kind of like building a brick wall. – You’re pulling your rings
over from your numbered things which were over here.
– Yes, correct. – All these are the same,
all these are the same. So the oil control rings
plus the retention? Or what do they call those? – Well, you have the top
ring and the bottom ring relative to the oil control. The oil control
– Okay. – is that corrugated one. – Gotcha. – And oil the cylinders
before you put ’em together. Before you put the pistons in there. Oil the piston itself, as you can see as it starts to get sloppy there in the valley. Also, make sure that you
put the piston in correctly. ‘Cause there is a right side, call it, not necessarily, I’m not
talkin’ about the rod comin’ up to the cylinder head. What I mean is the orientation of the top of the piston makes a difference. One is gonna be relative to the intake, and one’s relative to the exhaust and you need to make sure
that you have them correct. Otherwise your, in this
case, the top of that piston has about, a little over
a quarter inch dome. It will slam into that flat spot on the head, and I’ve seen where people
have put that together wrong. One side’s right and one side’s wrong. ‘Cause they forgot they
had to flip things around. – The other important thing, too, as you’re droppin’ them in here, is where your rings are oriented. – Yes, the idea, I touched on it briefly. So when you put your rings in, you wanna stagger them. And I’ll equate it to
building a brick wall. You stagger your bricks, so
you don’t have a straight path. It’s stronger. Now granted, we’re not trying
to make anything stronger, but you don’t want a straight leak path. It’s the same principle. – Air or oil. – Air or oil. Yep, exactly. Now, they do rotate, but you start off with them, at least. And then using the kinda
universal ring compressor. And these all went in nice and smooth. I think I’m finally breaking
that ring compressor in. I didn’t have to use my old one. I finally got this one to work well. And again, rotate a
little bit, one at a time. Torque ’em down, rotate ’em. Nothing’s bound up.
– Makin’ sure it stays spinning freely. More lube. Camshaft time. So tell me, we definitely had
a bunch of questions about – Yep. – cam specs and that sort of thing. So give ’em to me. – So, first off, everyone
needs to understand that there are two different
general styles of camshaft. There’s what they refer
to as a flat tappet, meaning the lifter is dead
flat across the bottom and it doesn’t have a roller. It’s a flat surface on the camshaft. That is a flat tappet. And then you have two different lifters. You have a mechanical
lifter, or a solid lifter, and you have a hydraulic lifter. All that makes difference is
hydraulic takes up the lash with oil pressure, a solid
lifter, you set the lash. And as the temperature
goes up that lash reduces. Then you have the, and
this is not new technology. I love that everybody thinks that roller camshafts are new technology. The 1917 Peerless has a
roller camshaft in it. So roller camshafts are nothing new. The idea is instead of
that being a flat surface and it’s metal to metal, scrubbing, right? You have a roller, needle bearing roller, that rolls across that surface. The advantage is, is
you can get a lot more aggressive cam lobe. It can open and close, or
the ramp rate is much faster, you improve efficiency
in the combustion chamber which means you get more power. And well, quite frankly that’s the point. – That’s what we want. – That’s always the point. I’ve yet to hear anyone say,
“I need to build a motor “that makes less power.” Now maybe if you have a 3,000 horse motor and you’re tryin’ to run
it on the street, yes, you might want 300 instead,
but for the most part buy a different car.
– I don’t think anyone’s gonna take a 3,000 and make it do that. – So this is a hydraulic roller camshaft. There’s multiple advantages
like I already said, based on the design of the cam profile. The other advantages
are, the roller camshafts are not as susceptible to the issue with zinc in the oil. So, do you still need zinc? Yes, you still need zinc
because you still have rings, you still have other parts that need some amount of zinc to function. However, the camshaft does not care. ‘Cause now you’ve taken away that friction of the flat tappet against the camshaft and that heat and wear
and the amount of buffer that it needs for the oil
lubricity, if you will. So with that said, you eliminate that crazy crap of starting up an engine
and immediately yankin’ it to 3,000 RPM and hangin’
out for 25 minutes. – Hoping that something
doesn’t go wrong, otherwise. – Exactly right, yeah. So you don’t have to do that. I know everybody swears that “Oh, you didn’t break anything in right.” No, you still break stuff in, meaning you drive things conservatively until you’ve kind of
run it through its paces and make sure everything was okay. – Yep. – So you lube up the camshaft,
just like you normally do, but the point is, is you
don’t have to break it in like you do a flat tappet camshaft. The hydraulic rollers are beautiful. You don’t, at the same time if
you were gonna rebuild that, it doesn’t matter which set
of lifters go on what lobe because it’s not broke
in specific to that lobe. I mean, it has a ton of advantages from call it usability or friendliness. Now, with all that said, we took, I know, that
camshaft was miserable, the one that was in it. It was a stock cam, the lift wasn’t all that great. It was probably 480,
roughly, which is pretty low, and duration was probably
about the same, I suppose. But we bounced this up
to, let’s see the numbers. The gross valve lift is 566, and it’s considered, a ya
know, advertised as a 280, but the actual duration is like 224. – So you’re movin’ a whole lot
more air and fuel, right now. – Yeah. So you’ve got a lot more
lift, but then your duration isn’t so crazy that you’re losing call it the compression, I guess, I think is the right way to put it. But that lower duration helps the torque. And there is ridiculous
amount of information goin’ around how camshaft design is and I don’t pretend to know anything after what I just said. I do take recommendations
from the manufacturers. This COMP cam was recommended
for what we’re doing and the ya know, all, the
whole package of things. – So here’s your puller,
installer, plus your– – Plus my spacer that
happens to be exhaust tubing. But yeah, so you had to
basically, you need to install that timing gear on
without using a hammer. Because ‘member when we
once set that end play at four and a half thousandths? Well, if you take a hammer and beat it on, you’re beating against that surface, – Right. – and you’re gonna call it, mushroom it. Now the hammer I’m using
there is not for that purpose. That’s not what we’re doin’, yeah. – That’s just the key in, right? – Which I probably should have put in, in the first place, but that’s okay. So we go through and we degree the camshaft and we’re actually gonna
do an individual video how to do that, or how we do that. – [Ben] Probably when we get
around to doing the Buick. We’ll do a video about that.
– Yeah. And I use the intake centerline method. It’s what they spec out on.
– And the coat hanger method. – Yep, you always use a coat hanger. Wherever you can. Since exhaust systems last so much longer, but coat hangers, ya know, you’ve gotta use ’em for something. – Okay, getting the heads ready. – Yep, so again, fresh parts all the way through this. Ultimately even, I end up
swappin’ the studs as well, ’cause I didn’t like the rocker arm studs after I got ’em in. – Yeah, I was gonna say
those are the old ones. – Yeah, those are the old ones,
they had some wear to ’em. – And then you ended
up grabbing some ARP’s. – So brand new springs,
happened to be dual springs. I like the dual springs
over singles because you’re not asking a single wound spring to do as much, or a dual wound
spring to do as much work. – [Ben] Somebody asked
about the blue grease here. – So after installing the first one and gravity kept phewth,
out my keywave, right? ‘Cause you got the little kee– the keepers that you’re puttin’ in there. I went over, grabbed the cabinet and grabbed the, just
wheel bearing grease. – Just so they stick. – So they stick. That’s all it is for. And I coulda used the red, I
coulda used probably anything. That was handy, it got a
little acid brush in there and just dab it on there and
it sticks amazingly well. – So you started off with old ones. – Yeah, so we set the old ones in here, but then ultimately we swapped ’em out. Fresh valves. We used heavy duty stainless and again the heavy duty stainless is for that temperature function. They hold up better to heat. – Another case where we
have talked about this several times and what you’re doin’ there. – [Davin] You’re asking the
springs to open and close when you want ’em to open and close. And if you don’t install them right, they won’t have the seat
pressure that they should. – Meaning they’ll be maxed out and they won’t have the
valve lifted all the way. – Exactly. And your camshaft wants
– Or close all the way. – this specific amount
of load from the lifter to survive, as well. Because you can put
too much spring on ’em. Ya know, if you had, let’s say it called for 180 pound spring, and you put a 400 pound spring in there. Well, it’s gonna wear that lobe out cause pressure’s pressure
even with the roller tip. So you set that. And a roller lifter typically, uses a little higher
spring pressure anyway. So it can compensate for that, it can keep the lifter
in contact with the lobe because of that aggressive ramp rate. – And based on those
measurements that you get, you’re putting in little spacers to- – Yeah, little shims, so
they’re just little round shims, flat stock, and they go
right underneath the spring, in the pocket and you just
adjust that to whatever you need. I think we averaged, they were
all a little bit different, but like 30 to 60, I think
is what our range was. Which that doesn’t,
I’ll say doesn’t matter. I mean even if you had one that was a 100. It doesn’t really affect anything there. I know we have plenty of
people that have their opinions on things, and I do as
well, so my opinion is I put seals on everything. I put seals on the intake which it needs, ’cause on your intake
stroke is where you have ya know, your vacuum, so you
don’t wanna have, ya know, the vacuum from the combustion chamber sucking oil down the valve guides and in the street application, especially, I really hate that puff
when you start up a car and it’s got oil, and that typically is from the exhaust valves. – Oh, okay. – So, it can be in the
intakes as well, obviously. – You mean, that while it sit, it’ll kinda leak down in there
– Just seep down. – and then that first little
thing, you’re burnin’ that oil. – Exactly. So I put, I put seals on the exhaust as well. There 50 cents, and the
amount of drag is minuscule. – [Ben] Some parts to put back on. – [Davin] Yeah, isn’t that beautiful? Look how pretty that is. – [Ben] It is. – I mean, you have fresh
parts, ready to go. Now, there’s a Where’s
Waldo on that table. I don’t know if I let
the cat out of the bag, but there’s one part that
doesn’t belong to this engine on that table which I think is funny, now that we look back at it. (laughing) – I’m tryin’ to see if I can see it. Is it, is it one of the pulleys? – No.
– No? – No, all the pulleys are correct. But it’s this little
heat shroud right here. – [Ben] Oh, yeah. – So, I sent that heat shroud to go out. So I had the exhaust components, the exhaust manifolds,
and the stove there. I had those cerakoted. It’s a ceramic coating they spray on and it’s wonderful. It seems to hold up, so far,
just immaculate, very well. And it’s a pitch little more
silver than I would like. I’d like it a little bit
darker from a cast look, but it’ll be perfect. But I sent that out at the same time, just to have it done, ’cause
I knew it needed to be done. Well, it’s for the Buick. So, eh, what the heck. – So this is actually, we
haven’t really been able to see this much in the previous ones. We’ve talked about it,
but just talk about, you just talked about
makin’ sure the pistons are installed in the correct way, but then as far as what you’re
using the clay there for. – So as I go through and
do my final assembly, there’s still always
some mock-up function. Now, what I’m mocking up here is what that lift is going to do to the clearance to the piston. So, valve clearance to the piston face. I used the old gasket, ya
know, and it’s a 40 thou. I went to an 80 thou. That’s a direct number. I mean, add 40 thou to the
clearance, type of thing. But you mock it up such
that you have pistons in it and you put on your rockers
and use some push rods and actually in abusing lifters
in there that are solid, they’re not hydraulic or
made solid, I should say. So you’re not losing
anything, deflection-wise. ‘Cause you wanna go
through the full stroke and I could’ve taken and reduced the spring pressure as well. ‘Cause the idea is, it just
needs to hold the retainers. Push it down, you’re pushing the valve as you go through the
stroke of the crankshaft, the valves are moving down, ya know, towards the piston and such
and you want to make sure you’ve got plenty of clearance. Again, rough numbers,
– There you go there. – Ya know, a 100 thou for your, at least a 100 thousandths on intake and maybe 150, 180 on exhaust
because the exhaust tend to, ya know, they grow obviously. – But you had plenty. – Oh, I had all kinds. – You can see how thick
– Oh, yeah, yeah. I think I had 300 to
400, if I remember right. So that means there’s room to grow. We could throw bigger
rockers on it, ya know. More aggressive ratio on the rockers. – So there’s the new gasket.
– But now, here’s the new head gasket and these
are multi-layer Cometics. You can order these in virtually
any thickness you want. Now the reason you change thickness is you adjust that combustion chamber size so you can
change your compression ratio. You don’t want to get too
crazy on your compression ratio ’cause you can’t buy, well you can buy fuel for it,
you just might not be able to buy fuel in the part of
the country that you’re in. So, I try to stick– – Especially for this one
– Yeah. – which it’s gonna be
used by a bunch of people and you wanna be able to,
wherever you are, get pump gas. Good to go. – And again, my version of pump gas is not 87 octane for my daily driver. – Right. – 93, 89 end. The big block on there, head design, you can use, you can get a
little bit more compression for detonation, relative to detonation. You’re not gonna detonate because of the combustion rate size. The numbers should be, that ceiling is about 10, where a small block is
about nine and a half. So you get a little bit more. I’m kinda pushin’ the envelope here, but so far it’s proving to be fun. And you can see there’s fresh, we got fresh rocker studs
in here at this point. – [Ben] Yep. – Oop, back up. Right, go one more so
the white button shows. All right, white button. If you’re a Ford guy or a Mopar guy, you’re probably like, “What in the world “is that white button doin?” A portion of engines
have a cam retainer plate so you put the camshaft in
and underneath the gear, there would be a plate that holds the camshaft from coming out. Big block Chevy’s and small block Chevy’s do not use a retaining plate. Later years, they do. They didn’t in the earlier ones. So what you have do,
specifically on a roller camshaft because you don’t want
them to move such that, the lobe to move too
far, to keep that roller in the center is, and the
spring force tends to push it. As the camshaft spin, it
wants to come forward. So that button is to hold it. The button rides on the backside of the, hits your timing cover. So that’s what, the
timing cover ultimately holds it in there, but you have a button, make up that space. – Gotcha. – Torque everything down, put
a new seal in it, obviously. Make sure you lube the lip seal on the crankshaft seal on the timing cover before you put your balancer on. Now, let’s see, we’re
puttin’ the lifters in. These are considered retro lifters because this was not a block
that had roller lifters. And I think we talked
about it with the Pontiac, the idea of that tie bar
is it holds the lifters from spinnin’ because on a flat tappet, it can spin wherever it wants to because the profile on the
bottom is exactly the same. If a roller lifter spins,
you got big problems because it doesn’t like that. So you have to hold that
lifter from rotating. – It’d be like tryin’ to ride a bike with your front handlebars
turned this way. – Yeah and in fact, if you look at the, go back to the Hemi
video, the Demon motor. If you look at the Demon
motor, the Demon motor has stock roller lifters
in it and it shows those retention plates that they used to hold that from rotating. So lube everything up good, again, this Redline oil here stays, or assembly lube stays in there very nice. – And we didn’t go with full rocker, or what do they call it? The difference between the dual and the– – Yeah, we used this, call
it a standard fulcrum. These are Comps, Competition products, Comp cams, magnum rockers, and
they’re only roller tip. The base, the pedestal at the, at the stud, so the pivot point at
the stud isn’t a roller, it’s the traditional fulcrum function. – And if you go back to the GTO that’s a full– – Yeah, that’s a full rocker.
– Rocker. Now the reason we did not do that on this particular motor,
is I wanted to maintain an outward appearance of stock. Now, when it’s running,
you can hear the rollers. But, it’s dead stock when you look at it, meaning the chrome valve
covers without a big spacer. If you look at the Pontiac,
we put a spacer on there to clear because they get big. They start to get really
big when you go to that. – And you also have the air pump, too. All that stuff, that’s
at least on the outside. You pop the hood and you go,
– Oh yeah, exactly. – oh yeah, it’s a stock. – Now, everybody’ll
say, “Well you just said “it’s gonna look stock on the outside “and then you put an aftermarket
intake manifold on it.” Yep, 100%, we did. – [Ben] And part of that
was due to the sealing issue that we had with the stock one. – It was suspect. Yeah, the stock one was suspect. It was suspect when I
initially put it together and then after all that oil, I decided to say, ya know what? This makes a nice shelf
ornament, and put it over there. And then, ya know, this intake
‘ll make a little more power. Obviously it’s a little
lighter, not that that’s a hill a beans difference
with the amount of weight that the big block has anyway. But it’s somethin’. So we went with a
dual-plane intake manifold and you’ll see later,
we make one more change, but that’s where we’re at here. So the idea behind this
engine and the car, so yes, it’s stock, “stock” relative to the outside. We made some improvements in the inside for more durability and usability. – Makin’ sure that thing
was behavin’ itself. – That’s right. – You stay right there. – That’s right. – [Ben] Starter. – [Davin] Yep, starter, fuel pump. – Gettin’ there.
– Exhaust manifolds on there. Aren’t they sexy, though?
– They look good. – [Davin] They’re pretty,
and they hold up really well. – [Ben] I do agree. They are bright. – They are bright.
– But they look good, especially with the shiny new paint. – Yeah, yeah. They look really good. And on that initial fire up and drive, we’ve driven it now, what,
another 100 miles or so? They look exactly like that. No burn, no nothin’. – Yes. – There’s the air pump goin’ on. – [Ben] Everything fits in there, nicely. It’s crazy how, it’s like a puzzle. – Yep. – It fits all in there. Sucking power. – Exactly.
– The engine. – Parasitic power at its finest. – Add some more friction in there. – Yep, and then go through
and set all the valve lash and we’re gonna do a video on that here. And I believe like a live
stream, as well, possibly. But, set all the valve lash. There is, I don’t wanna say,
there’s one way to do it. There’s the way, that’s
call it the best way. So for those that watched
at the very beginning and they said, “Hey, you had “a bone stock, numbers matching Camaro, “and you yanked the intake manifold off “and now you’ve put on
a Holley carburetor. “That never had a Holley carburetor on it. “Those are junk, and that quadrajet “from GM was so much better.” Well, you know what? I’m not gonna argue
whether one’s good or not. Here’s the fact of life,
the fact of life is this car’s out on the
road and it needs anything for the carburetor and you
walk into any parts store in America and you say, I
need parts for a quadrajet. They’re gonna be, “Huh? “We don’t have anything. “You need a gasket? “We got a gasket for it.” Well I need to rejet it. “Oh, wow, we don’t have any of that.” But you roll in and say, you got any parts for Holley carburetors? Thinkin’ you can look at the wall of jets, even at your box store, auto parts stores and they’ll be like, “What
jet do you want, sir? “We have all the parts.” – Which is particularly
important for Hagerty because we have an office in Golden, Colorado,
– Exactly. – that is a mile above sea level. And they have taken it up Pike’s Peak and that sort of thing before. So the ability of somebody
with a little bit of know how that can rejet the carburetor
for that purpose is– – Exactly, and if you’re
tryin’ to change jets, make adjustments to that quadrajet, and the way that’s designed, when you lift that top cover off, if you don’t have your ducks in a row, putting that back together, the needles that go into
the jets will be bent like switch grass, I
mean, they’ll be nasty. So that is why we changed it. For that particular reason. And you know what? And right now, all you
can see is the feed lines. – So it probably doesn’t
have 325 horsepower anymore. – Nah, probably not. – Do you have a rough estimate? People have been asking,
“Can you dyno it?” And we’ll try and dyno
it, if we get a chance to, at least what it’s making at the wheels. – We could certainly do
a chassis dyno on it. If I had to make an educated guess on the camshaft,
compression’s about the same, ratio wise, calculation about
the same as what it was, intake manifold’s gonna improve it some. I mean, you’re gonna be in the, you might’ve gained 50
horse, quite honestly. I think that fairly conservatively, so I would say, at the back of the motor, what that engine puts out
is probably about 375, maybe a little higher than that. Torque should definitely be improved. It should be in the 450
range, I’m gonna say. – Nice. – Now granted, at the wheel, you’re probably lookin’ at about 300, ya know, ’cause you lose a
bunch, goin’ through everything. It’s not as bad of course, with the Muncie as it would be an automatic trani. So that’s where I would ballpark it at. – And then, one quick thing, 396. It’s 60 over now which makes it what? – I think that works out to like a 409, I mean ultimately.
– She’s so fine? – Yeah. – I’m particularly,
I’m gonna take a minute to pat myself on the back for my transition.
– Yeah, this was fantastic. – I think there were one
or two comments of people that caught it and liked it, but yeah, you’ll see this
seamless transition of– – Goin’ from the assembly
stand to the start-up stand? – At this point we were,
we needed to get the thing on the stand and in the car like that day. And I was just like Davin,
just do this and do this stuff. We’re not gonna time lapse
it, just get it done. – Yeah, so when Ben says
he doesn’t do any hard work I wouldn’t have even the starting point of knowing how to do that. – I only made you do that, – So, hats off.
– walk like 15 times? – Yeah, somethin’ like that, yeah. Well, if I coulda done it right the first time it’ve been better. – Do you, we’ll ignore
the typical internet, “Well, you shouldn’t use this oil. “This is the oil that you should use.” Because it is what it is. – Everyone has their brand
preference and that’s fantastic. – Obviously, we have a little
bit that we have to deal with. – Absolutely.
– Which is what it is. But it’s by no means
going to ruin the motor. The main question
though, is why the 25W-50 as opposed to something thinner? – Right. So this 25W-50 has higher zinc content. Now I know we talked about, you don’t need a bunch of
zinc relative to the camshaft ’cause it’s roller camshaft. However, I’m still breakin’ a motor in. I’m still waking it up for the first time. I know the zinc is not
a bad thing for that. So that’s what I put in it. Now the 25-50, yeah, maybe
that’s a little aggressive, but at the same token,
again, back on that start-up, I know I’m gonna have solid oil pressure, and a lot of it. And as we go, we can certainly can drop, ya know, as this motor
goes through its paces and gets broke in and
such we can certainly drop down to a 10-40. I’m not comfortable with
a 5-30 in the Old Iron. Now, that’s not to say it can’t be used but I wouldn’t personally
probably go under a 10-40, myself. – No, cool. Hopefully, that answer
makes some people happy. It’s the internet, so it’s never
gonna make everybody happy. – Typical drop in, and something I’ll note real fast, first problem I always had, okay multiple times, dropping in the distributor,
after settin’ the timing, setting the, putting your
timing gears in, right? When you set them up, you put
your dot at the very bottom of the top gear and the
crankcase gear’s at the very top. Ya know, so six o’clock and 12 o’clock. The idea is they’re close
together so you can tell if they’re aligned, right? Now, I don’t wanna tell
you how many motors I put together and then
could never get them to fire up initially. They would always backfire
through the carburetor. And I would drop the distributor down, right here, just like this. That vacuum canister on these should point right towards, number
one, or I should say, the vacuum canister, the rotor should be pointed
right towards number one. – Right here.
– Yeah, sorry. Yep, so as I drop this in,
the canister’s gonna twist around to the right, there. So that should be pointed
towards the number one cylinder, okay, and obviously the
cap goes on that way. Did a multiple of ’em and I’m like, every time I’m getting this
thing in 180 degrees off. I can’t remember if I, I don’t
think I turned the crankshaft ya know, before, blah, blah, blah. Well, yeah, problem is when you set that, it’s perfect. That’s exactly what you’re supposed to do but that’s firing number six, which when you look at the firing arc, is exactly 180 degrees off
from firing number one. So the key is, rotate the engine, be positive, put your finger
in the spark plug hole, rotate it by hand, and you will
feel the compression stroke. – Yep. – Stop there. Set your balancer on the timing mark. That’s number one, drop
your distributor in. – Evidenced by when we go to start it up. – It fired right up. Now that is not saying that I did it wrong in any of the other motors
that we had problems with, but that’s somethin’ I learned
specifically to the Chevy’s. – And Easy Run Stand. And of course, we had the car to put it back in which some
of our Redline rebuilds, we haven’t, and people give
us a hard time for that. But it’s just a matter
of what we have access to and that sort of thing.
– Exactly right. – It’s just the nature of what we do. But we opted to put this
on the engine stand, why? – I like to take advantage
of the engine stand, to fire it up, debug anything
without leaning over fenders. ‘Cause let’s say, just by chance, it either blows oil everywhere, or maybe ya start putting coolant in it and you start getting
more of it in the oil pan, than what’s not supposed
to be there at all. – Not like that’s ever happened. – Not that we’ve ever had
that problem with one. But you can do a quick,
easy debug for the, I think in total, I had an afternoon, so three, four hours to put it on and take it back off to
be ready for the car. But you fire it up, ya know,
we had a couple fuel leaks, just at the carburetor,
nowhere else, but just there. And it’s just easier
to fix it right there. Address it right there on the stand. – ‘Cause heaven forbid,
you get it completely in, something’s spewing somewhere,
– Anything. – and then you have to
yank the whole thing out. Instead of an afternoon,
– Exactly. – you’re talkin’ like multiple days. – Right, right, yep. – Cool. And fortunately for us, here let’s see, let’s unmute it here, you got it figured out this time. – Yep, so initially, you’re
eyeballin’ that timing mark, backed it off a little bit. Bada boom! – And yes, we use some editing
tricks, from time to time, but that was how it went. It did a little choke
– No, that was 100%. – [Ben] You turned the,
what gave it less timing? – Yeah, I backed the timing off. And ya know, I filled up the carburetor, ya know put fuel in the carb– ’cause we’re usin’ the
mechanical pump here so we can have that
pre-charge of electric. But yeah, then it just fired right up. – And it sounds way stronger than it did when we pulled it in. – Yeah. So, in comes the car. – [Ben] Basically, reverse order. – [Davin] Yep, reverse
order, bolt everything up. I tell you what, I thought
I was gonna lose it though, lifting that Muncie up in there, ’cause I was adamant that
I was doin’ it myself. I would recommend help.
– more huffin’ and puffin’. – It’s easy to get the
Muncie up off the ground, but taking it from here to here is a little more
difficult than I remember. – Clean, what d’ya call
that, a clean, right? Where you pull it from here. – And then when I jumped, I
hit my head on the, oh boy. Anyhow. – This is nice to have this time around. – I tell you what
– that thing. – I have that personally
have the chain style leveler, and we didn’t use a leveler or
nothin’ to pull it out with. We just grabbed it with a regular hook, but that Pivot is nice. That is really nice.
– Yeah, you can see it go back and forth there to adjust it to get it up to where
the engine mounts were. It just looks nice too. Look at it on the table over there and you’re like, Yeah.
– Yeah. It’s a quality part, for sure. – And we’re not even
being paid to say that. – No, uh-uh, that’s legit. It’s always legit, but
ya know what I mean. Bell housing back in, trani in. Make sure you get your linkages correct on the transmission, or
it will not shift right. – [Ben] Drive shaft. – [Davin] Drive shaft in. – [Ben] That cursed Holley
carburetor in there. – [Davin] Yeah, get the Holley back on. We took it off for the lift plate, is all. – [Ben] Radiator. – [Davin] Radiator in. – [Ben] All the little bits. – Top off the radiator, and I take my time doin’ that,
by the way, ’cause it burps. And help putting the hood in. Get everything lined up. Be careful, I was a little nervous here with the hood because
we did make a change. We had a different intake
and a different carburetor. – Oh yeah. – So close that hood
slowly, the first time, so you know you have clearance, and don’t get a big dome in your hood. – Right. – There’s ways to get, ya know, some things you
can do to adjust for that. Air cleaner, basewise and all that. I am bird’s eye view, actually looking to make sure
that this is not gonna hit. But this hood has a nice little dome in it from the factory, so it’s good. And this is the proper
way to close a hood. I love it when I see anyone,
taking it from here– – And just goin’, wham! – And grilling it down. I don’t know. Shut your shed door that way,
not your hood on your car. That you paid a lot of money for, even if it’s a new one. And I’m not sure why
nobody likes my glasses. I grew up in the ’80’s, and
those were the best gla– And actually, they’re
safety glasses. (laughing) – The only time you wear safety glasses. – I wear safety glasses all the time. – When you’re driving. – And ya know, we warmed
this up really well on the engine stand. We certainly did not show, it didn’t run for that snippet of time. We ran it up, it got to temperature, it cooled back down, that’s the key. So, we’ll warm the engine
up on the test stand, right? Got it nice and warm, then let it cool back down
to ambient temperature. I mean, we had, this is the next day. – Yep. – So, do not think that we took it from off the engine stand. – Hot. – No the assembly stand. – Right, that’s what I mean. – Right from the assem– We didn’t take it from
the assembly stand, cold, and stick it here, fire
it up the first time, back it out and do this. – Right. – ‘Cause that’s not the case. – A big part of, you’re on YouTube, you’re here to be entertained.
– Yes. – If we showed you the
engine running for an hour, to get up to temperature, and
then, just let the video go for a half day, to show
that it cooled down. – Right, it would be pointless. – And any time lapse that I would shoot would be dumb because it would just be the car sitting there
with nothing happening. – There’d be no movement. – So like, give us the
benefit of the doubt. Davin’s done a few of these before. We’re generally pretty smart about how we take care of this stuff. – And I have to say, this is something it would not do before. – ‘Cause it didn’t have enough power. – Right. – Even with the rear end that’s in it. – Yeah, this is a 308 gear in here. And you’ll see it’s a peg-leg. – We got a little Stripe and
– Chirps – A little bit of a limp. – Yep, you get a little limp there. – On that end which, we can
sort of end it with this which is, we’re gonna fix that. “Fix”
– Fix it. – There’s nothin’ wrong with it. – Nope. – But there’s a certain amount of “fixing” to what it maybe should be. – And we always, there’s
always that discussion of hey, should I change
somethin’ that’s not broke. Well, it all depends on what
your definition of broke is. I mean, broke, is broke a pile of parts layin’ on the ground? Meaning where it’s physically broken in chunks that are unusable, or broke, meaning it doesn’t perform like I want it to perform? In my opinion, this car does way better
than it did before. That motor was broke, right? Now there’s a performance
issue to still fix and again, a little bit more gear will help that out. Not that it’s doggy now. – And so the plan is new gear, plus– – Make the other wheel spin. – Yeah, so it’s gettin’ a limited slip. And if anyone is still
watching at this point, this long video which we
hope you enjoyed learnin’ some stuff.
– Absolutely. – I always learn some cool stuff, but there will be a video soon, not just about us doing that, but how to do it, so if you have a car of
your own that is doin’ the ol’ one wheel peel,
we’re gonna walk you through how to “fix” that.
– Fix that problem. Exactly. And actually, when that gear’s in too. We’re gonna fix the fact that there’s no leaves on the trees. – All right. – We can do that. ‘Cause that’s what, this
is what northern Michigan looks like in the first week of April. Thankfully, well, I should
say the second week in April, ’cause the first week of April, this woulda been covered
in snow. (laughing) – [Ben] Well, again, like you always do. – Nice job.
– Strong work on the rebuild. That was a fun one. I think, even though this
wasn’t as like resurrecty as the 331 Hemi, or even the Buick that we’re in process now, the fact that it’s back in that car. – Exactly. – And drivin’ down the
road, is super cool. – That was, right there
was very satisfying. That was good. – Once we, what you can’t see right now is it’s up on the lift right now with the whole backend disassembled. It’ll be fun to get that out at the Hagerty Cars and Caffeine and back on the Driving Experiences and all that fun stuff. – And it’s gonna make it easier for those people to learn on. Because it’ll have a little more power, when you got that ol’
slip the clutch function, tryin’ to teach somebody
that’s got a little more gear and a little more power, it doesn’t take as much gas pedal. It just has to torque to move it. Won’t stall out. – Yeah, that’s why we did it, right? – That’s why I did it. – All right, well, thanks for watchin’. Make sure you subscribe
if you haven’t already. Like this video. Comment. If you have any other questions about what we talked about, let us know. – Yeah, throw ’em in the comments and we’ll answer ’em as we can. And we’ll see you next time. ‘Cause we’re doing more. – Yep. Thanks, see ya! Da, da, da, (jazzy music)

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