Use THIS to Pull a FENCE

Hey everybody. This is an area of our property
that we are getting fenced in to be a chicken run, so today I’m going to show you how we’re
going to string up this first part of the fence. Rather than try to wrap a fence all
the way around the post, we’re going to individually stretch fence from one post to another, cutting
it at each intersection. One thing you need to take into consideration
when installing your fence is if there is any slope on the property. You don’t want
to attach your fence perfectly plumb onto this post and then find out you have even
a one percent grade going up towards your other post because then you’re going to have
problems aligning the entire fence, so what we’re going to do is temporarily hang this
post with some very loose staples so that we can determine what angle it needs to be
at and then proceed from there. Okay, so what we’re using as a guide for now,
the fence is still extremely loose but we’re making sure that the bottom is flush and then
we’ll put in this loose tack up top and then we’ll start to arrange things so that we can
pull it tighter. So trying to do everything as taut as we
can by hand, this is as far as we are able to get. As you can see, there’s an awful lot
of slack still in there and as you can see by looking at the fence in relation to this
pole we’re going over about 6 inches from center, closer to 8, than where we are in
center down at the bottom and that is showing the elevation change from front to back. So
now let me show you what we’re going to do to tighten this up. Now just to explain to you a couple of the
tools that we need in order to stretch the fence. There’s probably a hundred different
ways to do this. I’ve seen people do it using a wench on their vehicle, there’s just so
many different ways. We’re going to make use of the tools that we have and that’s comprising of
a tension bar that you can find in the chain-link section of your hardware store, a fence puller
and both of these are designed to help spread the pressure out on the fence because the
next piece of equipment is the Come-Along and it’s what we’re going to use to crank
the fence and pull the tension on it, but if we were to just have one point of contact
on this fence we’re going to damage it and probably pop some of the welds. So, by combining
that with the tension bar and the fence puller we can spread that force out across the fence
on many different points and get a lot more tension before we worry about causing any
damage to the fence. Okay, so the next option that really presents
itself to you is where are you going to connect to this fence and what are you going to connect
to so that you can stretch? If you’re in a big open field, probably the only thing that’s
available to you is the corner post. You can see in our case that there’s a cedar tree
behind here, but as the image makes it look, though it’s a little more extreme on the image,
the cedar tree is in front of the fence, meaning that if we tried to pull tension on the fence
toward the cedar tree, we’re going to end up about a foot away from the post that we’re
trying to connect to. If you had a point of contact that were, as it is in the picture,
to the left of the fence, then you could connect to that and pull the fence from behind the
post. The other option to you is to bring your tension bar and fence puller out in front
of the post, probably a good 3 or 4 feet, if not more, and then pull tension and connect
your Come-Along to the post, pulling the fence to the post. Now when you do that, you’re
going to have a slack area between where your Come-Along attaches to the fence and the post
but the idea here is, by the time that you release everything, the little bit of slack
that was there is not going to really present itself and you will be able to have a tight
fence. Another option that you always have is to
move your tractor in place and create an anchor point for you to be able to go on. So, I like
this option better because I’d rather not connect to the corner post because of the
slack that it leaves behind, so by having my tractor over there, I can pull and get
the tension that I need on the entire fence. One note of caution here, as you connect everything,
make sure that whatever you anchor to is at the same height as your anchor point on the
fence. That way you don’t end up trying to pull up or down on the fence. Alright, connecting the tensioner is easy
enough to do. You’re going to want to intertwine it into your fence. I’m going to go two horizontals
on one side of the tension bar and then two horizontals on the other side and connect
it all the way down. So as you can see, the point of this is to
give you something to pull on that’s not going to easily bend because you have that width
of the tension bar to pull against. Okay, so now that you have your tensioner
in your fence, you’re going to attach the fence puller to it. Just do your best to make
sure that you’re in the middle of it so that you’re not too high or too low, and you’re
just going to hook on just like that. Now I’ve already connected to my anchor point
and I’m just going to connect onto here. Now our goal is simply to ratchet the Come-Along
slowly until we start tensioning the fence and then make sure that everything is aligning
the way that we want. You can see there’s still a slight bend in
the fence, but this is as tight as we’re going to be able to get it without damaging the
fence material itself. If this were something like a barbed wire or just a field wire fence
then we would be able to get this much more taut. In this case, what we’ll do is secure
these nails, or staples onto the fence post and then use t-posts to support the structure
throughout the span. One thing you really need to remember to take
into consideration is what direction your fence is pulling to where you’re going to
put in the staples. You can see, this is the end of the fence that we had the Come-Along
attached to so the fence is wanting to go back that way, so we have the staple on the
left side of the vertical wire to help control that desire for the fence to go that way. Okay everybody, I hope that gives you some
sense of what you need to do to be able to stretch a fence. As with so many other projects,
the next step is going to have to wait for another payday, but now you have the essential
information that you need to go forward and start your project. If you have any questions
or comments, please go ahead and leave them below and as always, thank you for watching.

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Reader Comments

  1. J&J Acres

    The fence is going up on our chicken run. So, of course, we are going to show you How to Install a Fence!

    How to Install a Fence: Homestead Help

  2. The Productive Garden

    It looks like a great start to your fence. That hieght should keep the chickens in.
    I suggest considering brace on the posts so they dont get pulled inwards, especially once you get the other sides connected

  3. Lucky Dew Garden

    hmm….ok I have some great ideas now on my fencing….thanks so much Jared for posting this and pointing out step by steps…this helps out a lot! -Lucky

  4. Rohinton Irani

    Amazing work
    Just wanted to know what is the equipment known as with which u pulled the fence
    instead of putting one nailfor the vertical wire u could attach the second nail on the other square to get it more stronger

  5. Wayne Meador

    Great information @J&J Acres, I really appreciate how well thought out you are before starting a project….I tent to make changes as I build! Not necessarily my strong suite. lol

  6. ChileExpatFamily

    Here is a little money saver for you. $$$$
    We used to cut down Black Locust, Cedar and some Cherry trees for fence posts with the black Locust trees being the best the world over. Each of these species are found in your area I believe. You need a chain saw and a splitting mau or wedge to split 8 foot trees into thirds. There is no need to take off the bark. Just trim the limbs off and split them to the size of your calf or fore arm.
    NOW; this is hard work and I did 100s of these with my brother. We eventually smarted up and used a hydraulic splitter on the tractor that we built.
    A word of warning: Black Locust trees have thorns as long as 6 inches so be careful and burn the branches.
    ALSO: Split Locust posts will become hard as a ROCK in about 30 days after they are split or cut down. So do not tarry get them cut split and put in the ground.
    These posts make excellent cut 4×4 square posts for live stock pens. THEY NEVER ROT AND TERMITES DO NOT EAT THEM!!
    Good luck! God bless………….. jim 

  7. Cynthia Emmett

    The Post Collar-   the only way. You dont need a metal anchor. Fast easy and inexpensive to install. Can be installed to existing fences.

  8. Jeremiah J Pennington

    I'm installing a goat fence soon and will be using the same type of fence, but with pine tree posts I cut from our property. Thank you for this video. It was very helpful!

  9. The 104 Homestead

    +J&J Acres – will this technique work with woven wire as well? The goats are on the loose so I've got a project ahead of me this weekend.

  10. judy hendtix

    my horses have leaned over the fence and mashed it down and also made it loose.How can I fix it back so it will be tight and also make the mashed parts straight again Thanks Judy

  11. joe doakes

    Attaching tight wire on a single post is not smart ! Unless you're using old telephone poles buried 6 feet deep !  You need to be very strong hbraces , before attaching tight wire to such !

  12. Rick Droit

    Very Helpful, I really appreciate it. .Ive also seen in an old farm fence book that you can cement an extra pull post to attach the come-a-long on. . but this was by far the most helpful video ive seen, thanks and happy trails !

  13. Franklin Taylor

    Yeah, pulling wire like this over slopes is tricky. Keeping everything equally elevated as you pull to your anchor is a key.

  14. Pete Mason

    Worked on my uncles farm for a few months, did a fair bit of fencing. Old hand there used a length of rebar and three truckies straps. Weave the rebar top to bottom, set your straps in from the top, middle and in from the bottom, tension away. Worked a charm and excellent for getting the tension equal along the fence, and FAST as frig! A real skookum choocher.

  15. Steven Eaton

    Two quick suggestions. When your installing your fence staples, install them diagonally across the welds instead of straight up and down. It gives you a better connection. Also, I like to install a 2" x 4" the same height as the fencing, positioned over the wire nailed directly into the fence post. That will provide further protection for your fencing and cinch things down a little more.

  16. Thommy Two Toes Times Three

    Another tensioning method would be to drive a stake in at an angle and then drive another stake 2' behind it and tie the top of the first stake to the bottom of the second stake. With this method you can use as many stakes as needed depending on the tension required.
    Using the winch at the first stake, you drape the tensioning rope over a board or post that is half the height of the fence and tension the fence. If the board becomes angled, tap it back upright or slightly toward the target fence.

  17. Tim Witort

    Some good tips, thanks. A couple of points to consider… end posts need to be plumb, yours are not, so the fencing comes across them at an angle which contributes to the sagging top of the fencing. And the end posts DEFINITELY need to be properly braced. Unbraced end posts are doomed to failure.

  18. William Levitt

    Very well made instructional video! Thanks for the great information. I like the use of the chain link fence bar to give additional support. Much easier than a t post.

  19. cooldbz12

    You need to make a H brace in the corners if not your corner post will lean like @ 6:02 and not look nice, also your fence will loosen up more as the post lean more over time. Also add barb wire along the bottom first to keep predators from bushing up on the fence, and you also need to put the Tpost first before the fence and the barb wire will guide you since it is at the bottom straight between posts.

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